tips on how to take care of a brazilian salmon pink birdeater

polo2468

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jul 23, 2010
Messages
4
i have a brazilian salmon pink birdeater and i needed somne help to determine how to take care of it it is about 2.5 inches about a year old
 

KoriTamashii

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Nov 21, 2009
Messages
419
If you'd done research, you'd know there are a lot of opinions on how to care for them. :rolleyes:

But to see how people here feel about it, try using the search function. :)
 

gromgrom

Arachnoprince
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Nov 30, 2009
Messages
1,743
yeah i get yelled at for telling people to search on the scorpion side of the board, but really, this is a common specie, and if you know the scientific name, or heck, the common name, its really easy to find info on them.

hell, mine was kept at 50-60% humidity (bedroom humidity) and its been molting well... so theyre a hardy specie.
 

brian abrams

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
75
Care for LP

Very easy to care for! These things are very hardy, and very forgiving. That is why SO many people prefer them over T Blondi. Some of my containers have gotten a little too dry; sometines a little too wet, NO PROBLEM! They are much faster and more skittish than a Rose-Hair or most teddy bear Brachys; but if you don't mind a T that reaches 9" in size; NO PROBLEM! Just don't get bit by the sucker once it reaches that size....
 

killy

Arachnoknight
Old Timer
Joined
May 20, 2009
Messages
250
Call me crazy, but I'm finding that the care and feeding of my lp is exactly like the care and feeding of my g pulchra, which is exactly like the care and feeding of my a versicolor, which is exactly like the care and feeding of my c cyaneopubescens, which is exactly like the care and feeding of every single one of my other Ts - I've reached the conclusion that Tarantulas are ridiculously easy, and cheap, to take care of - just add water, substrate and crickets, and away they grow!
 

Merfolk

Arachnoprince
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Dec 13, 2005
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1,323
Well, unless you put them in the microwave, the freezer or spend months without giving them any water, chances that you loose a LP are close to non existent.

The most basic T ever.Sufficient space, moist ground with a waterdish for larger specimens, room temp et voilà!!! Mine are kept in minimal conditions, fed whatever I find in my garden (up to frogs), never lost one single sling since 2005 and I had quite a few!!! Stories about LP survival are astonishing!:eek:
 

Vespula

Arachnodemon
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
706
They seem like an awesome species. I don't have much advice, since I've never kept one, but they do sound epic!
 

BorisTheSpider

No this is Patrick
Old Timer
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
488
I recommend them to anyone . The are very forgiving and a are exceptionally easy to keep . Mine can be a little quick to show some defensive behavior . They are the best display Ts around . Mine just sits right out in the open all day . Best of all they get huge and they do it quickly . I agree that getting bite would really suck , they have some huge fangs .
 

mschemmy

Arachnoknight
Old Timer
Joined
Mar 2, 2009
Messages
167
Absolutely love my LP! Always on display and LOVES to eat. Cant go wrong with this species!!:D
 

TheSanguineSaint

Arachnosquire
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
Messages
54
Absolutely love my LP! Always on display and LOVES to eat. Cant go wrong with this species!!:D
Hi there...I have a sling L.p. and have researched but tbere are so many conflicting opinions on how to keep them. I have heard over aand over again how hardy they are but we have a new sling. In that just molted a week ago. Do I need to wait until its fangs turn xark again before I feed it again. What did you feed yours and when does their chance for surviving get better? My "Little Lou" is a scardey cat which Ive read this species is often. Lou wont eat runs away from anything we drop for it. Adult cricket leg only, 1/8 pinhead crickets,half a meal worm. We have been watching Lou on our Go-Pro and have not seen any attempt to eat or catch etc. Any suggestions for me please. The breeder said she always eats the pinheads no prooblem. Maybe she needs more than 10 days after her molt to want to even as she is still very pale.Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated tyvm
 

Ungoliant

Malleus Aranearum
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Do I need to wait until its fangs turn xark again before I feed it again.
With any tarantula, you should wait until the fangs are black before feeding. (They start out white, then turn a ruddy color, and finally darken to black.) The bigger your tarantula, the longer this process takes. For tiny slings, it could just be a few days. (I wait a week to be safe.) For large adults, it could take a few weeks.

As long as you keep the water dish full during the post-molt recovery, they will be fine. They won't starve during the time it takes to be sure it's safe to feed them.


Any suggestions for me please.
Try leaving the pre-killed prey (or piece of prey) for 24 hours near the sling's burrow. You may not see them eat it right away, but they will usually scavenge if they're not in pre-molt. (If you see that the prey item has been moved, they probably fed on it.)
 

Venomgland

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Jul 23, 2017
Messages
148
This post is perfect timing! I just ended up getting on of these as a freebee along with a free B.a. curly hair in the mail yesterday with my G. Pulchra and B. Bohemi.
 

cold blood

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Hello 7 year old dead thread.:bored:

I love the threads looking for sling care...hilarious...with the exception of maybe baboons...pretty much all slings are kept the same way....on damp or slightly damp sub.
 
Last edited:

boina

Lady of the mites
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Mar 25, 2015
Messages
2,217
Hello 10 year old dead thread.:bored:

I love the threads looking for sling care...hilarious...with the exception of maybe baboons...pretty much all slings are kept the same way....on damp or slightly damp sub.
It's 7 years, not 10 - you can't count :p

@TheSanguineSaint if a Lasiodory sling won't eat after a molt it isn't ready yet. They need time for their whole exosceleton and most importantly for their fangs to harden. Wait a week after a molt before you try. If you fed too early it might already have damaged its still soft fangs - Lasiodoras have an extreme feeding response and may try eating before they are ready. Wait a few more days (depending on size 2 weeks not eating after molt can be normal for a sling, much longer for adults) and if it still wont eat you will have to try mashed cricket...
Unless you keep it on mud (much too wet substrate) or something goes wrong during molting these slings are pretty much unkillable.
 

TheSanguineSaint

Arachnosquire
Joined
Aug 21, 2017
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54
Ty
It's 7 years, not 10 - you can't count :p

@TheSanguineSaint if a Lasiodory sling won't eat after a molt it isn't ready yet. They need time for their whole exosceleton and most importantly for their fangs to harden. Wait a week after a molt before you try. If you fed too early it might already have damaged its still soft fangs - Lasiodoras have an extreme feeding response and may try eating before they are ready. Wait a few more days (depending on size 2 weeks not eating after molt can be normal for a sling, much longer for adults) and if it still wont eat you will have to try mashed cricket...
Unless you keep it on mud (much too wet substrate) or something goes wrong during molting these slings are pretty much unkillable.
TY kindly! No mud here except maybe the very bottom of the vile in 1 corner. The humidity is at around 75. Tep the same. I hqve not fed her yet except for the dead cricket leg which she wouldnt touch lol. Thank you for the advice its greatly appreciated. We just got our Tapinaucbenius sp.Union island sling and our B. smithi(formerly annithia) in too so it will be nice to watch the differnces in their growth rate, activity etc! Thanks again
 

boina

Lady of the mites
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Mar 25, 2015
Messages
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Humidity is completely irrelevant. Those humidity numbers that are handed around on care sheets are the worst things ever - innumerable tarantulas have been killed because people tried to reach some imaginary humidity numbers and kept their tarantulas in humid, stuffy enclosures. Do not do that. Your Lasiodora will survive and the smithi probably too, but your Tapinauchenius may not. Keep the substrate slightly damp, not wet, for slings and you should be good. Throw the humidity gouge out. It's vastly incorrect anyway.
 

Charlottesweb17

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Messages
34
IMG_1579.JPG
I have 3 LPs and they are awesome. My two original guys are about an inch my sling is about 1/4" maybe molted into a 1/2".
Very easy to look after.
Give them deep subturate as they love to burrow. All of mine built burrows as soon as I got them.
Watch how often you feed them. I made that mistake and one of mine got a little bit too chubby. They are garbage disposals and eat as often as you give them food.
The one above is one of my first LPs Kronk and one of my biggest.
 
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