Info and advice on my red claw and dune scorpion

Scorpinok

Arachnopeon
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
2
I have a red claw and a dune scorpion housed seperately I haven't sexed either one yet because they are to aggressive to handle. I'm not sure how either, I believe I know the basics of both species but there are def people who know more about them than me so tell me everything you know please. I know my red isnt full grown but the dune I'm not sure about I rarely see it because it never leaves it's burrow. Any info would be great thanx!!
 

Smokehound714

Arachnoking
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
3,091
Adult dune scorpions (smeringurus mesaensis- you should learn their scientific names!) tend to max out around 3.5 inches from chelicerae to telson for females, males tend to be more slender with more dramatic carination on the pedipalps (claws). There really isnt too much to these, they're active and prefer low humidity with fine sand and something to hide under. Heat helps, but make SURE you dont use a heat lamp!! If you want heat, use an IR lightbulb instead, they cannot see red light.

As for the redclaw (im assuming you've got a pandinus cavimanus), basically the same exact setup as any pandinus- comfortably moist, well ventilated, with ample substrate (coco fiber) to burrow in. Again, dont use a heat-lamp for reptiles, use an infrared light for heating. And make sure it's pointed at a comfortable distance!
 

Scorpinok

Arachnopeon
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Messages
2
I do have a heat lamp I use during the day because my bedroom is quite dim to keep their day and night cycles normal. I only use it during the day though and I keep my smeringurus mesaensis in its desert habitat at 85+ with no humidity and it has several hides amongst the rocks. I also have a small heat pad in one corner which he or she tends to stay close to, the substrate is a sand coco mix. I do have a red bulb from zoo med that I sometimes use at night but rarely do I ever see it outside its hide and it doesn't eat like it use to, it seems a bit more skittish after I moved it into a 10 gallon tank. It also may be an adult or in the last instar because its prob 3+ inches. I was hoping to see a molt.

My pandinus cavimanus however is not an adult and in recent times becoming my favorite because it just does more. Its also very defensive and makes quite the display if disturbed. However ive yet to see it sting anything its pincers are very powerful and large. Its a younger scorp I'm not sure how old but maybe 3.5 or 4 I've never measured it either. Its feeding has slowed a bit also after being moved into a 5 gal tank with Eco earth. Its has a couple hides rocks and its favorite cork wood log. Its also gets heat from the mat mentioned above as the tanks are touching in one corner and the heat bulb reaches it to, I keep the temp inside in the 75+ deg area and try to maintain at least a 70% humidity level. I am anxiously awaiting a molt because its def growing fast and looking healthy. Would they be more active if I only use a red bulb? What about their days and nights? And do you see any probs with my set up?
 

Smokehound714

Arachnoking
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
3,091
the reason i stress the infrared is because the scorpions cannot see it, so it wont stress them out, and They'll come out and be active and you'll be able to see behaviors you'd otherwise never notice otherwise.

Plus actual heat lamps are way too hot. Dune scorpions dont need high heat, they enter diapause in cold regions, an example being the algodones dunes, which tend to be VERY cold in winter due to the open space and lack of mountains or rocks to absorb heat. Dryness is more important.

the wild, they aggressively run across the sand at night in the hope that they'll bump into prey, with their tails held high, just as fast and agile as a solifugid. They will travel considerable distances from their burrows, marking their trail with chemicals, which they use to return home. They're so active and fast that few other scorpion species will be found in an area dominant with s mesaensis.

Much like hadrurus, they may actually require a cold period of inactivity to remain healthy, so you could probably stop heating it.
 
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