T.Stirmi

eldondominicano

Arachnobaron
Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
421
Hello, I have had a Therephosa Stirmi for about a month now, and was wondering what peoples opinions are on humidity and temperature. I do use a hygrometer, but have been told that that can be dangerous and that hygrometers can be unpredictable. Nonetheless my humidity is consistently around 70-80, sometime going to 85. There is very fair ventilation and temps get upto 78 but rage on average 74-77 during the day, and 68-72 at night. Also if I am not to use hyrgrometers how to do you grade the humidity, particularly with more moisture dependent T's. Thanks

---------- Post added 12-26-2014 at 12:24 PM ----------

Forgot to mention its not an adult, is a 4" juvenile.
 

TarantulaGuy84

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
36
The temperature in my room stays between 74 and 78 year round. As for humidity I have a large deli cup in there for her drinking supply. I will just slightly overfill the water bowl once a week, but not too much where the substrate stays soaked and starts to create mold or becomes stagnant. I would also mist half of her enclosure just to get it damp but not soaking.
 

JZC

Arachnobaron
Joined
Oct 9, 2012
Messages
421
Temperature isn't all that important with Ts. Humidity is with this species. Keep a water bowl in the tank and keep the substrate moist at all times.
 

Formerphobe

Arachnoking
Old Timer
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Feb 27, 2011
Messages
2,336
I don't monitor the heat or humidity in my room or enclosures. The house thermostat is set on 70F. My mom's desk top weather gauge says RH is 30%. My room gets the morning sun, if there is any, and if I keep the door closed it gets right toasty in there. On overcast days and at night it is noticeably cooler. One corner of my stirmi's tank gets a bit of early morning sun and I have a heat mat above substrate level on the back of the tank. The stirmi tank and a neighboring tank share a low wattage red lamp that is situated about 14 inches above the enclosures. (More because I'm nosy than for heat.) The screen top is about 95% covered with plastic wrap and the there are multiple live plants thriving in the enclosure. The little darling has a range between 4 and 8 inches of substrate and, after abandoning her clay pot a few months ago, has utilized and customized a deep pre-start burrow on the other end of her tank. I cause heavy-ish rains in the enclosure once every 7 to 10 days and she has a shallow wide mouthed water bowl. Like my Emperor enclosures, I can feel the heat and humidity when I open the tanks to feed, water or do maintenance. There is a growing population of isopods and I have plans to add some red wigglers. She's established a daily routine, is visible regularly and has grown from 1.5 inch to >4.0 inches since July, so she must like something I'm doing. :)
 

ARACHNO-SMACK48

Arachnoknight
Joined
Oct 29, 2013
Messages
284
Temps 70 degrees F to the mid 80's are just fine. My T room has gotten down to 69 degrees F in the winter at times and all my T's are healthy and growing at a steady rate. Ideally temps at 70 degrees F or higher (up to about 87) are good. Make sure you have good cross ventilation so that you can keep the humidity up without sacrificing having fresh air in the enclosure.
 

Ultum4Spiderz

Arachnoemperor
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Oct 13, 2011
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4,504
Temperature isn't all that important with Ts. Humidity is with this species. Keep a water bowl in the tank and keep the substrate moist at all times.
yeah THEY are swamp dwellers like froggys.
 

eldondominicano

Arachnobaron
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Dec 8, 2014
Messages
421
In any case i know that The Stirmi is not nearly as moisture dependent as the Blondi. My main concern is mold with a consistent moist substrate.
 

Nicolas C

Arachnosquire
Joined
Jan 13, 2014
Messages
72
I personally keep my stirmi on a rather dry substrate, with a big full waterdish (big = 10 cm wide and 2 cm deep) and she has been fine for more than two years now. At first she had to "adapt" a little bit (meaning I gave her more water on the substrate when I saw that she needed it), but now everything seems to be fine, including molt. I have to say that I stay in Switzerland (not very hot, not very humid country) and that my stirmi is captive bred. If you look at its behavior closely, you will notice if it needs more water (if it stays over the waterdish for long times) or not. In case of doubts, you can pour some water in a side of the enclosure (changing the place to avoid mold) once in a while. For me, I don't use hygrometers.

About molting issues, it seems to me that problems occur more than often because Theraphosa are either too fat and/or disturbed during the process of molting. For grown-ups Theraphosa, molting takes time, a looooong time, and they have to be left undisturbed during this.
 

eldondominicano

Arachnobaron
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Dec 8, 2014
Messages
421
if you noticed in my photos. i have what seems to be mushroom growth occurring near the bottom of my enclosure. i was told that its not a hazardous deal.

---------- Post added 12-27-2014 at 12:11 PM ----------

And since that photo I have also dampened the surface of the substrate and rearranged me ventiation cover so i have three open holes on either side, and in the center of the lid. All other holes are covered. i feel that in this photo i didnt allow for enough air movement. Opinions?
 

Poec54

Arachnoemperor
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Mar 26, 2013
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Theraphosa need cross ventilation to prevent mold/mites. With that, I'm able to keep mine on moist substrate and not have issues. I certainly DO NOT want my Theraphosa on substrate that's at all dry, especially when molting. Since they're so large, and molting takes longer, I don't want the molting fluids drying prematurely.
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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No, they aren't, neither are Hysterocrates. They live in rainforests. I don't know how that rumor got started.
Maybe its the original Wc Blondi that's were I heard about this. CB are hardier I bet.
 

eldondominicano

Arachnobaron
Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
421
Theraphosa need cross ventilation to prevent mold/mites. With that, I'm able to keep mine on moist substrate and not have issues. I certainly DO NOT want my Theraphosa on substrate that's at all dry, especially when molting. Since they're so large, and molting takes longer, I don't want the molting fluids drying prematurely.

I've built an enclosure. Im baking organic soil at 315 for 1-2 hours, I will have 1-2" of pea gravel at the bottom and pack 4-6" of substrate on top of that. I will provide the hides and moss as well. As for cross-ventilation, i'll be putting holes right above the gravel. I have 22 holes pre-drilled already. Does this sound alright in your opinion?
 

Poec54

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Mar 26, 2013
Messages
4,745
I've built an enclosure. Im baking organic soil at 315 for 1-2 hours, I will have 1-2" of pea gravel at the bottom and pack 4-6" of substrate on top of that. I will provide the hides and moss as well. As for cross-ventilation, i'll be putting holes right above the gravel. I have 22 holes pre-drilled already. Does this sound alright in your opinion?
Air holes should be on the upper sides, not down low, where they can get plugged. You don't need to bake the substrate, it'll be contaminated soon enough from the spider and prey, it's an exercise in futility. No such thing as a sterile spider cage after a few days. You don't need gravel in the bottom either, the substrate should be moist, not soggy. There's no need for water/gravel in the bottom.
 
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