LP hasn't eaten in 2.5 months

2 months prior to molt, now 2 weeks post molt. Did have to regenerate a leg and it is only about 67 in my house (New York in a bitter winter). Have placed a large Dubia and a a few crickets in but to no avail. Pickles' is just not eating. Did spot him drinking last week though and no sign of dehydration or desiccation. Is this common? I'm thinking with size the time lag between meals around molting lengthens, just looking for opinions. Thanks so much, pictures are below for viewing. I'm guessing Pickles is a male taking into consideration the leggy coltish appearance. Have tried for a pic to sex by, but no luck yet. Also, the enclosure has about 10 inches or so of substrate (coco fiber) and the space between top of tank and substrate is only about 5 inches so a fall, should there be one, will do as little harm as possible.

Kelly

From what I can see your LP is actually a female, the pedipalps doesn't have the boxing glove look. And for the size she at and how she looks I think shes fine, it isn't uncommon for them to fast that long before a molt.

Its clearly not mature, you won't be able to tell if its male or female as they will look identical at that size:wink:

ASAP TARANTULA said:

From what I can see your LP is actually a female, the pedipalps doesn't have the boxing glove look. And for the size she at and how she looks I think shes fine, it isn't uncommon for them to fast that long before a molt.

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+1 coldblood.. it's not yet mature so can't identify sex by appearance.. only mature males have emboli, so doesn't mean that if there's no emboli visible it's not a male, it could be a pre-mature male..

Ventral sexing will give you at least an idea what to expect, sexing via exuvium is the 100% foolproof way to determine gender.

I love it! Pickles is a fantastic name! From appearance you can't, but i'm guessing female. The immature male's I've had were thinner and super leggy. If she was hungry you would know it. She's looking nice and plump. I wouldn't stress about her not eating just make sure she water.

Before a molt I know, but post molt? At any rate, there is water and food available (Dubia in the tank) so I'm guessing Pickles will eat when ready. Worrisome little creature Thank you for your comment

---------- Post added 03-03-2015 at 12:11 PM ----------

lalberts9310 said:

+1 coldblood.. it's not yet mature so can't identify sex by appearance.. only mature males have emboli, so doesn't mean that if there's no emboli visible it's not a male, it could be a pre-mature male..

Ventral sexing will give you at least an idea what to expect, sexing via exuvium is the 100% foolproof way to determine gender.

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I can honestly say I am hoping Pickles is a female, as they live longer than males do And thank you all for you help. Since placing Pickles back home after the impromptu photo session this morning, she/he has gone into its hide and buried halfway through the substrate that forms the back wall of the hide. She/he has literally buried its head in the proverbial sand. Le sigh.... be well everyone and thanks again for your help.

You're very welcome. Well she still has a robust abdomen and she might not have hardened completely.

There's nothing wrong with being optomestic on your t's sex! Males are still very important plus you could try to get him to breed and get some offspring, so it's having a piece of him.

I have an LD about that size and it takes about a month for it to accept a meal post molt. I think pickles is fine especially since, as mentioned, its abdomen is nice and plump.

The low temps are likely slowing down her metabolism...
The consensus on minimal low temps for Ts is still debated but I would freak out if my temps went that low.. I keep my Ts high 70s to low 80s and I don't lose ts or have Ts that fast..
I would try raising your temps into the mid/high 70s and see if her appetite improves..

14pokies said:

The low temps are likely slowing down her metabolism... 70s to low 80s and I don't lose ts or have Ts that fast..
I would try raising your temps into the mid/high 70s and see if her appetite improves..

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+1
I believe a proper high consistent temp is more than neccesarry to have normal growth and behaviour
I too keep temps no lower than 75F and haven't had even my rosehair fast as of yet*

assidreemz said:

+1
I believe a proper high consistent temp is more than neccesarry to have normal growth and behaviour
I too keep temps no lower than 75F and haven't had even my rosehair fast as of yet*

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Hello and thank you. I was concerned about the temps, so, as was advised, purchased a space heater for the room that my T's and my two P. imperator scorplings are in. It raised the room temp to 72 and my bill, no lie and no kidding, to over $500 in a month and a half. I've since gone back to suspending a low wattage IR 8 inches above the lid of the tank and do not have it shining directly onto the tank but rather positioned so that the tank gets the residual heat. The temps get to around 24 c, shut it off at night, and I mist highly in the morning on one side of the tank, or overflow the water dish if needed, to compensate for any drying out of the air the IR might cause. I've resorted to this method before, and watch carefully to make sure there is no desiccation etc. I think it is the lesser of the two evils: cold or dry air. So frustrating when I feel I can't care for my charges correctly. But, thank you all for your advice and if anyone has any on safe heating methods, please share. Have thought about electrical/heating tape, any thoughts?

Using a heating lamp is risky but you seem to have it a safe distance from the enclosure.. Lp can tolerate dry conditions so I'm not too worried about desication but to counter the drying effects of the light you can put a damp towel,saran wrap or aluminium foil over 3/4 of the enclosures lid.. Monitor the temps though as the cage will heat up more and more quickly with less ventilation.
In the past I have run flexwatt heat tape on the back wall of my shelves to raise the temps. I keep about a half inch of space between the cage and the back wall. Honestly though its a really inefficient method of heating...

thank you for your response...

14pokies said:

Using a heating lamp is risky but you seem to have it a safe distance from the enclosure.. Lp can tolerate dry conditions so I'm not too worried about desication but to counter the drying effects of the light you can put a damp towel,saran wrap or aluminium foil over 3/4 of the enclosures lid.. Monitor the temps though as the cage will heat up more and more quickly with less ventilation.
In the past I have run flexwatt heat tape on the back wall of my shelves to raise the temps. I keep about a half inch of space between the cage and the back wall. Honestly though its a really inefficient method of heating...

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Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts with me. I have been (in lieu of Plexi) using aluminum foil covering half of the LP tank (pic included) to ensure heat and slight humidity retention, and was wondering if it can't see its reflection above it. Knowing T's can't see all that well I am inclined to think no At least I hope not. I have enough to worry about without worrying that it's stressing itself out fighting its own image from above

Praying for warmer weather soon to be sure. Will stay away from the heat tape and stick with the IR for now.

Thanks so much