Newbie Keeper Questions

SpiderBoo

SpiderBoo

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
14
Hey guys!

I'm really, really new and I have a few questions for raising Ts, I've done my research and there are conflicting views on a few things, here goes:

1. Is it bad that I mist their enclosure? If not, how often should I mist it?
2. I keep my Ts in my room and sometimes I turn on the A/C, is this okay?
3. For the Babies (Shiny, white ones): When should I expect the molt? Should I just leave them alone til they do?
4. Is it better to keep them in the dark?
5. Is power feeding advisable?
6. Dubia nymphs Vs. Lateralis nymphs?
Also, Lastly, is it safe to use the hydrogels in nappies as a water source for feeders?

Thanks in advance :)
 
Last edited:
miss moxie

miss moxie

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jun 13, 2014
Messages
1,804
1. No it's not bad to mist their enclosure, it's just rather pointless as it doesn't do much to increase humidity. The water dries out too fast to make much of a difference.
2. Sure it's okay as long at the temperatures don't drop below 70F-- which the number will probably be debated, but I don't like to let my Ts get any colder than that. I like to keep them at a min. of 75F. Just my personal preference.
3. Molting depends on species.
4. It's better to keep them out of direct sunlight, but ambient light doesn't bother them all that much. Some species are more light sensitive than others though.
5. Some people powerfeed to obesity which can be detrimental to a spider's health because it severely increases the risk for a ruptured abdomen. Also it shortens their lifespan.
6. No idea on this one, I feed with crickets.
7. Do you mean those water pillows? I've no experience with that either.
 
cold blood

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,259
SpiderBoo said:
Hey guys!

I'm really, really new and I have a few questions for raising Ts, I've done my research and there are conflicting views on a few things, here goes:

1. Is it bad that I mist their enclosure? If not, how often should I mist it?
2. I keep my Ts in my room and sometimes I turn on the A/C, is this okay?
3. For the Babies (Shiny, white ones): When should I expect the molt? Should I just leave them alone til they do?
4. Is it better to keep them in the dark?
5. Is power feeding advisable?
6. Dubia nymphs Vs. Lateralis nymphs?
Also, Lastly, is it safe to use the hydrogels in nappies as a water source for feeders?

Thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...
1. It depends on the species you have and where/how you are misting. Misting is a terrible way to attempt to maintain humidity as its effects are short lived. If on the other hand you are just very lightly misting webbing weekly, that's fine for many, especially good webbers like avics. I rarely mist, in fact in the first 14 years of keeping I never misted once. Now I have a space heater in my t room and things can get exceptionally dry, so a few t's to get misted on occasion, but truthfully I prefer to pour water onto the sub than misting anyway, as it has a significantly longer lasting effect.

2. As long as you aren't chilling the room down too much, AC shouldn't pose an issue, many keepers use air conditioners in the summer without issue.

3. It depends on the sling. When they get fat and shiny, just add a little moisture and leave them be until they molt....so yes, just leave them alone till they get the job done.

4. T's have no light requirements, keeping them in the dark is just fine. My room is dark most of the time, they are most active in the dark. Light won't hurt and many do give light or simulate outside conditions with lighting...not a problem either.

5. Powerfeeding is one of those terms that's meaning varies depending on whom you speak with. The true definition is having food available at all times, almost no one does this. A heavy feeding schedule, especially combined with good temps, will increase growth rates and therefore decrease the amount of time between molts. You cannot over-feed a growing sling. A lot depends on the species or individual as some are more aggressive eaters than others. I feed them every 2-4 days when they are small, but some won't eat that often, like my P. muticus or B. albiceps, I adjust their feeding schedule according to their appetites. I document their feedings so I can easily get a feel for their appetite.

5. I'll leave this to someone who deals with roaches, I do not....I feed crickets, superworms, hoppers and waxworms....and moths if I can get them.

Those gels are fine for feeders, but don't use them for your t's. I just give my feeders regular old water without any issues.
 
G

Graeboe

Arachnoknight
Joined
Oct 28, 2014
Messages
164
Movies got most covered
But id say
6. Depends on size, cost and shell thickness for the nymphs as well as which ones your ts prefer. I also do crickets and order 1/8" just for my slings
7. If your talking about the gel cubes or water crystals, even the pillows. Don't. Just straight water in a cap or container smaller than the ts legspan. For my slings I use plastic leaves if nessasary but usually just let some water bead up on the substrate near them or along a wall. (Works for me, doesn't mean it's the best way)

---------- Post added 03-14-2015 at 05:25 PM ----------
cold blood said:
1. It depends on the species you have and where/how you are misting. Misting is a terrible way to attempt to maintain humidity as its effects are short lived. If on the other hand you are just very lightly misting webbing weekly, that's fine for many, especially good webbers like avics. I rarely mist, in fact in the first 14 years of keeping I never misted once. Now I have a space heater in my t room and things can get exceptionally dry, so a few t's to get misted on occasion, but truthfully I prefer to pour water onto the sub than misting anyway, as it has a significantly longer lasting effect.

2. As long as you aren't chilling the room down too much, AC shouldn't pose an issue, many keepers use air conditioners in the summer without issue.

3. It depends on the sling. When they get fat and shiny, just add a little moisture and leave them be until they molt....so yes, just leave them alone till they get the job done.

4. T's have no light requirements, keeping them in the dark is just fine. My room is dark most of the time, they are most active in the dark. Light won't hurt and many do give light or simulate outside conditions with lighting...not a problem either.

5. Powerfeeding is one of those terms that's meaning varies depending on whom you speak with. The true definition is having food available at all times, almost no one does this. A heavy feeding schedule, especially combined with good temps, will increase growth rates and therefore decrease the amount of time between molts. You cannot over-feed a growing sling. A lot depends on the species or individual as some are more aggressive eaters than others. I feed them every 2-4 days when they are small, but some won't eat that often, like my P. muticus or B. albiceps, I adjust their feeding schedule according to their appetites. I document their feedings so I can easily get a feel for their appetite.

5. I'll leave this to someone who deals with roaches, I do not....I feed crickets, superworms, hoppers and waxworms....and moths if I can get them.

Those gels are fine for feeders, but don't use them for your t's. I just give my feeders regular old water without any issues.
Click to expand...
Dangit C.B. You had to go post while I was typing lol
 
SpiderBoo

SpiderBoo

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
14
Okay wow, thanks guys, BTW I forgot to say, the species I'm caring for are Albopilosums and Albiceps. My friend wanted me to practice on beginner breeds with little or no toxicity levels for humans. Also, is staying in the burrow for long periods of time a sign of molting? One of my albopilosums won't leave its burrow unless I lay food out. I have a once-every-2days feeding schedule for my babies, is that okay? And weird question, why are my Dubias aborting their babies?
 
G

Graeboe

Arachnoknight
Joined
Oct 28, 2014
Messages
164
SpiderBoo said:
Okay wow, thanks guys, BTW I forgot to say, the species I'm caring for are Albopilosums and Albiceps. My friend wanted me to practice on beginner breeds with little or no toxicity levels for humans. Also, is staying in the burrow for long periods of time a sign of molting? One of my albopilosums won't leave its burrow unless I lay food out. I have a once-every-2days feeding schedule for my babies, is that okay? And weird question, why are my Dubias aborting their babies?
Click to expand...
Burrowing can always just be for burrowing. It gives a good sense of security. And dubias aborting their babies? My guess is the temps might not be ideal as well as humidity.
 
cold blood

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,259
SpiderBoo said:
Okay wow, thanks guys, BTW I forgot to say, the species I'm caring for are Albopilosums and Albiceps. My friend wanted me to practice on beginner breeds with little or no toxicity levels for humans. Also, is staying in the burrow for long periods of time a sign of molting? One of my albopilosums won't leave its burrow unless I lay food out. I have a once-every-2days feeding schedule for my babies, is that okay? And weird question, why are my Dubias aborting their babies?
Click to expand...
No reason to even own a mister for those species. Dry sub (with a damp spot for slings) and a water dish and you are good. Your friend is wise to "learn you" on good beginner breeds.

Staying in the burrow is just a "leave me alone" sign, could be molt related, could just want to be left alone. A burrow keeps them feeing safe and its common among many t's...a lot like to hunt with their feet just out the front door...snag the prey and drag it back to the burrow.

Every 2 days is a heavy schedule, keep them warm so their metabolism stays up. They will end up fasting longer before molting. With those species though, I'd back it off a touch with the albo (3-4 days) and a lot with the albiceps....then again, an important question would be; How big are the t's in question....I'm assuming slings, you say babies, but people call grown ones their babies, so I'm not positive. If they are adults or even juvies, then I would slow the feedings back to once a week. I keep my slings warm (about 80) and most eat every 2-4 days. My albiceps, which is a hair over an inch, eats every 4-10 days, as it just won't eat on a more frequent schedule.
 
El Consciente

El Consciente

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 13, 2015
Messages
28
SpiderBoo said:
Okay wow, thanks guys, BTW I forgot to say, the species I'm caring for are Albopilosums and Albiceps. My friend wanted me to practice on beginner breeds with little or no toxicity levels for humans. Also, is staying in the burrow for long periods of time a sign of molting? One of my albopilosums won't leave its burrow unless I lay food out. I have a once-every-2days feeding schedule for my babies, is that okay? And weird question, why are my Dubias aborting their babies?
Click to expand...
If you see her web off her burrow effectively trapping her inside, that's almost always a sign of an impending molt. If she does that, you'll know to expect a bigger T in the coming weeks :biggrin:
 
SpiderBoo

SpiderBoo

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
14
Ah, I have another question, one of my Ts burrowed and I KNOW s/he brought the lateralis inside with him/her I can't get the carcass out, the burrow's become this intricate thing that I can't access.
 
Tim Benzedrine

Tim Benzedrine

Prankster Possum
Old Timer
Joined
Apr 4, 2004
Messages
1,497
Well, if it took it in to consume it, which of course it did, there will not be much of a carcass to worry about. I wouldn't sweat it. While true that numerous boluses can be a mite attractant and mould risk, a single one at the bottom of a burrow shouldn't be much concern, IMO.
 
G

Graeboe

Arachnoknight
Joined
Oct 28, 2014
Messages
164
SpiderBoo said:
Ah, I have another question, one of my Ts burrowed and I KNOW s/he brought the lateralis inside with him/her I can't get the carcass out, the burrow's become this intricate thing that I can't access.
Click to expand...
Don't worry most likely the T will push the carcass/bolus out on its own.
 
ratluvr76

ratluvr76

Arachnodemon
Active Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2014
Messages
759
I think everyone is assuming they think you mean your asking if it's ok to use water crystals for your spiders but I think your asking about using the water crystals that are in baby diapers to water your roaches... If that's the case, I don't think it would be a problem to get the crystals out of diapers and use the for you roaches. I think it's the same stuff as the crystals you'd buy at a garden center. As far as providing water for your spiders, you can use a bottle cap to hydrate them. Even tiny slings will drink from a bowl if it's provided although you may never actually see them do it. Many of us believe providing access to clean fresh water is important for your spiders. Some don't, but I think a lot of us do. +1 to dribbling some water directly on the substrate in place of misting. It's more effective and actually easier for you. (This is in addition to the water cap/bowl.) Use a syringe, (without the needle of course).

+1 for not worrying when one of your babies spends a lot of time in its burrow. This is normal for a lot of species, especially as slings. (Sling is the term we use for baby spiders).

+1 for not worrying about trying to get feeder carcasses out of the burrow. As mentioned, most spiders will eventually "clean house" by pushing food remains (boluses) and their spiders shed skin (exuvia or molt), out of their dens eventually. Some even leave their trash conveniently next to or in their water bowls/dishes making clean up a snap for us human spidey janitors.:giggle:

And final point: if what your seeing with your Dubia is a long thing coming out the back end of your dubia's when you see them aborting their babies, they aren't abbourting them, dubias are live birth species. They incubate the eggs internally and when they are ready to hatch, that's how the come out of the mother.

Welcome to the hobby! Welcome to the boards. With well thought out questions, and willingness to hear the answers, I'm sure you will learn fast and be a welcome and important member of our forum here quickly. :cool:
 
SpiderBoo

SpiderBoo

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
14
Thank you for this, I'd just recently bought a thermometer/humidity measuring thing for my Dubia today, I don't know how useful that'll be. And, uh, well one of the Ts got out last night and I can't seem to find him/her. S/He is just a sling and now I'm stalking every corner within a 30 foot radius of the enclosure, apparently the slings are secretly ninjas?

I don't see my Dubia having the long thing hanging out of their back, it's more like I see eggsac looking things on the floor of their box, I don't know why they do this.

Thank you all for the answers and thank you for the warm welcome :)
 
Poec54

Poec54

Arachnoemperor
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
4,745
Why use water crystals for feeders? Give the lettuce, carrots, potatoes, and other similar vegetables, and they get their food and water both from them.
 
SpiderBoo

SpiderBoo

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 13, 2015
Messages
14
I worry about molds and other things, one of the guys I talked to about this at the pet store said that once I put it in, I have to take it out right away the next day. They advised that I should feed the feeders bird feed or hog feed instead but I have to include lots of water for them. Also, I watched a video about raising Dubias and the guy had this roach chow with sugar and cat food and bird food and calcium, so I was wondering if that's the way to go, he didn't mention anything about vegetables or anything. but another video did say that their diet has to include fresh fruits and vegetables, so I'm guessing 50/50 is the way to go?
I also read that I didn't have to put fresh fruits and vegetables everyday, that I have to limit those as treats for feeders, now I'm super confused hahaha.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top