Fogger + Molting

While on the boards I noticed that several people had lost their T's to bad molts (T. Stirmi) and most people's reasoning was that the humidity was not right and they dried out during their molts. This would really only apply to those who use foggers (Such as ZooMed's ReptiFogger) to maintain humidity. It got me wondering, if we noticed our moisture dependent T was going into molt (Flipped over, ready to pop the cork) if turning on the fogger periodically would help the T maintain moisture.

Just a thought I had and was curious to hear what everyone thought!

Humidity would need to be risen prior to it flipping IMO.

agreed.. but if you know your T and flip the humidifier on to a timer as its darkening up. it may work.. but isnt it possible your T can get TOO moist wiel molting? so then youd REALY need to know your variables.. temp, arh, ventilation factoring in etc etc

I'm just thinking out loud here but wouldn't a room humidifier be safer? I'm just thinking along the lines of using a space heater over a tank heater kind of thing. If you live in a place with decent humidity I wouldn't think it'd be necessary though. I just noticed you're in central Utah, so you're probably drier than here in Salt Lake. I'm not sure though. You ask a good question, I hope more experienced keepers than myself comment on it!

I think the idea is to take care of your T's correctly so you don't have to worry about when the molt....

I have used a few things to keep mt T rooms humidity higher including room humidifiers and I have found what works best is a good size fish tank with out the lid and 2 aqua clear filters one on each side . It creates a very good amount of constant humidity . Size of tank depends on size of T room . You can keep fish or not . I keep plants and shrimp so it's very low maintenance . You do have to add water daily but usually not more than a gallon depending on where you live . I live in the desert with about 4 percent humidity so I have to make sure there's good steady humidity in my T room .

Way over complicated. I have a bunch of stirmi, all sizes, and have never had a molt issue with them; I keep them like Asian terrestrials. You don't need a fog or a swamp. Molting is a huge ordeal for spiders, and a small percentage of losses are normal, which is one reason they have so many young. Probably half of the molting problems I've had (with other T species) have been internal and occurred pre or post molt. Things go wrong, things rupture.

A spider room should have some humidity, especially if you're using artificial heat; use a room humidifier. Cages get humidity from water bowls, and is many cases from substrate moisture. Provide adequate ventilation and mold/mites isn't an issue. If you're running heat, your cages are dry, and your spiders have molting problems, you don't need all kinds of complicated gear.

I use an ultrasonic humidifier in my T room.I have yet to see this bad molt thing everyone talks about.I keep it 60%in the room,and adjust it to each spider with water dishes or substrate wetting.I only keep NW terrestrials in my T room,so it may not work as well for someone keeping varied species.

shawno821 said:

I use an ultrasonic humidifier in my T room.I have yet to see this bad molt thing everyone talks about.I keep it 60%in the room,and adjust it to each spider with water dishes or substrate wetting.I only keep NW terrestrials in my T room,so it may not work as well for someone keeping varied species.

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It's only a matter of time before you have molt problems. Humans get cancer, spiders die in molting. NW terrestrials from drier climates have probably evolved to work with the limited moisture they have. But most species are tropical and from wetter areas and are more dependent on humidity and moisture in their lives. I've noticed that during our hot, dry Florida springs (wildfire season) when we get a couple of (infrequent) rainy days, I've had 2 or 3 dozen adult/subadult spiders suddenly molt that week. Obviously there's a connection. I've seen Stan Schultz post here that's there's no connection and that tarantulas don't need humidity and moisture to shed properly, but from my observations I disagree. Most of the species I've kept are tropical, whereas the majority of Stan collection was primarily the calmer NW terrestrials, many of which are from dry climates. It only makes sense: evaporation is faster in dry, warm air, and it can be beat-the-clock for the spider to get out of it's old exoskeleton in time before the lubricating fluids are sticky or dry. Our homes are drier than most of the places tarantulas occur; they're not shedding in natural conditions. We need to make adjustments for that.

Poec54 said:

spider room should have some humidity, especially if you're using artificial heat; use a room humidifier. Cages get humidity from water bowls, and is many cases from substrate moisture.

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I have an aquarium in the same room as my spiders. The evaporation from the tank itself keeps the humidity in that room about 10% higher than the rest of the house.

klawfran3 said:

I have an aquarium in the same room as my spiders. The evaporation from the tank itself keeps the humidity in that room about 10% higher than the rest of the house.

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That's an excellent way to boost humidity.

klawfran3 said:

I have an aquarium in the same room as my spiders. The evaporation from the tank itself keeps the humidity in that room about 10% higher than the rest of the house.

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That works well as long as you live in a humid climate.Ten percent doesn't mean as much when you're starting with 25% RH,as I do up in the mountains here,esp. in winter.More drastic measures are needed,which is why I have to use a room humidifier.

shawno821 said:

That works well as long as you live in a humid climate.Ten percent doesn't mean as much when you're starting with 25% RH,as I do up in the mountains here,esp. in winter.More drastic measures are needed,which is why I have to use a room humidifier.

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Another good idea. Raising room humidity is an important part of it, so you don't have a dry room and spiders in soggy cages.

shawno821 said:

That works well as long as you live in a humid climate.Ten percent doesn't mean as much when you're starting with 25% RH,as I do up in the mountains here,esp. in winter.More drastic measures are needed,which is why I have to use a room humidifier.

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I live right next to the ocean so humidity is usually around 50-65% most of the year.

klawfran3 said:

I live right next to the ocean so humidity is usually around 50-65% most of the year.

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All you have to do is open a window,and you have perfect T conditions! Those of us that have to live in arid conditions,plus deal with heating on top of that,have a tougher row to hoe. If I were to shut off my humidifier,I'd have to have soggy cages like Poec said.With it,I can keep the room up around 60%,and have half dry,half damp cages for my HHR guys.(High Humidity Required,I hate the term "swamp dwellers")

shawno821 said:

All you have to do is open a window,and you have perfect T conditions! Those of us that have to live in arid conditions,plus deal with heating on top of that,have a tougher row to hoe. If I were to shut off my humidifier,I'd have to have soggy cages like Poec said.With it,I can keep the room up around 60%,and have half dry,half damp cages for my HHR guys.(High Humidity Required,I hate the term "swamp dwellers")

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Haha I wish I could open a window. The spider room (my bedroom) is surrounded by all the other rooms in the house. No windows to be opened.