A Few Questions About Keeping Arboreal Species

Aether Bunny

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
21
So after a year of caring for a rosie I'm looking to obtain another T, something a little more exotic (I love my rosie but she's a pet rock: the only time she moves is when there's a cricket nearby). I've narrowed my choices down to either Grammostola pulchripes or Avicularia Avicularia. I'd love to have a monster T but arboreal species interest me also. I like the Avics for their beautiful blue colouration and tree-dwelling ways but I'm wondering about the work involved in maintaining humidity, ventilation and cleanliness of damp substrate.

So for the experienced owners of arboreals requiring high humidity I have a few questions:

-What is the best way to maintain humidity: misting, overflowing the water dish or both?

-Will a screen-top terrarium provide adequate ventilation?

-Will I have to worry about mites or other unwanted critters in the substrate?

-How often should I clean the tank and/or change the substrate?

-Also does the added moisture & humidity affect the temperature of the enclosure? I have an oil radiator-type space heater I can put on the other side of the room to raise the air temperature without drying the enclosure or exposing the T to direct light. (My T room is in a basement so its a degree or two cooler than room temp)

If I do get an Avic I will of course have a hygrometer and air thermometer to go by but I want to know the best way to go about caring for the animal: if I lost a T due to improper care I'd be heart broken... Anyway thanks for reading, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

Tfisher

Arachno-Geek
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
251
This should be posted in questions, but I'll give you some answers.

Avics need cross ventilation so a screen top will quickly dry out. As for maintaining humidity a water dish will do fine as long as their is no screen top.

Mites can be avoided by simply keeping it's enclosure free of bolus'.

-Thomas
 

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,257
So after a year of caring for a rosie I'm looking to obtain another T, something a little more exotic (I love my rosie but she's a pet rock: the only time she moves is when there's a cricket nearby). I've narrowed my choices down to either Grammostola pulchripes or Avicularia Avicularia. I'd love to have a monster T but arboreal species interest me also. I like the Avics for their beautiful blue colouration and tree-dwelling ways but I'm wondering about the work involved in maintaining humidity, ventilation and cleanliness of damp substrate.

So for the experienced owners of arboreals requiring high humidity I have a few questions:

-What is the best way to maintain humidity: misting, overflowing the water dish or both?

-Will a screen-top terrarium provide adequate ventilation?

-Will I have to worry about mites or other unwanted critters in the substrate?

-How often should I clean the tank and/or change the substrate?

-Also does the added moisture & humidity affect the temperature of the enclosure? I have an oil radiator-type space heater I can put on the other side of the room to raise the air temperature without drying the enclosure or exposing the T to direct light. (My T room is in a basement so its a degree or two cooler than room temp)

If I do get an Avic I will of course have a hygrometer and air thermometer to go by but I want to know the best way to go about caring for the animal: if I lost a T due to improper care I'd be heart broken... Anyway thanks for reading, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I'll answer all these questions, but know, that based on these questions I think its clear you should get the G. pulchripes and not the Avic. Pulchripes is a spectacular spider in every way...good eaters, beautiful coloration, active and easy to care for. This should be your next.

The best way to provide humidity is simply by providing a water dish, its as simple as that, care-sheets and such that you've read cause more confusion on the subject than anything. Most of us keep the substrate predominantly DRY, use a water dish for humidity and add a few droplets of water to the webbing weekly for easy drinking. Misting is useless as its effects are very short lived...misters re popular, but COMPLETELY unnecessary for keeping t's. Adding water by pouring, sprinkling or injecting water into the sub re far more effective.

Screen tops have NO PLACE with t's. They are dangerous as the t can get caught in them or even chew through them. On top of that, top ventilation kills any micro-climate you are trying to form, basically over-ventilating...screen tops are a horribly bad idea. Ventilation, especially for arboreals, needs to be cross ventilation....meaning venting needs to come from the sides, not the top.

If you keep the sub predominantly dry, mites wont be an issue. Proper ventilation helps with mites and such...if you get them, its not a big deal, just dry the enclosure out. Keeping the enclosure clean and free of dead prey or bolus' is also important.

The substrate doesn't just need to be changed normally...only in an emergency situation, like if you get a massive mite or mold infestation...but proper ventilation and husbandry basically prevents this.

A space heater is enough for the cold months, in the summer, you should not need any additional heating...I certainly hope you are not heating your rosie. DIrect sunlight won't hurt a t, it will just cause it to hide, like when its sunny in the wild. Sun isn't something to be worried about, people suggest keeping them away from windows and such because it can cause temps to rise dramatically...so in a window is a bad idea.

You DO NOT need EITHER a thermometer OR a hygrometer. Temps shouldn't be any concern as long as its not cold. Heating importance is not a critical aspect of t keeping, despite what the LPS would like you top believe....same for hygrometers....they actually cause more problems than they could EVER solve. See, people read these worthless care-sheets, believing they need some magical number specific humidity. So they get a hygrometer, and add water until their doohickey reads that magic number they are searching for....by then the enclosure is severely over moistened, which leads to their next thread they start...which is the classic "my dead avic" thread we see with unbelievable regularity.

I use an oil filled heater for my room for the winter months, it does dry air out a bit, so to compensate, I will add a little extra moisture to the substrate...but only a little.

G. pulchripes, however, is a better choice IMO.
 

Hydrazine

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
411
Hygrometer and thermometer are unnecessary waste of money. If you're fine in a tee and shorts, the spider's gonna be fine as well.
Pet store hygrometers are just useless crap, basically anything but lab grade hygrometers is crap.
 

Aether Bunny

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
21
Well, I didn't realize it was that simple caring for arboreals. And no I don't heat my rosie, I just wanted to do my homework and know exactly how I'll go about care before hand. I heard many avic avics die in captivity due to drying out so I wanted to get educated on how to avoid this.

Anyhow due to the above recommendation I think maybe I will go with a pulchripes instead as my second T and move into arboreals some time in the future. Thanks for all the info.
 

Poec54

Arachnoemperor
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
4,745
I heard many avic avics die in captivity due to drying out so I wanted to get educated on how to avoid this.
Just the opposite. The biggest killer of Avics is moist, stuffy cages. They need a combination of humidity and ventilation; stagnant air is lethal to them. People incorrectly give them moist substrate and then mist too much and too often. Then they soon have a soggy cage with condensation and the poor Avic dies. Avics are not for beginners. Get the care terrestrials down before you get a arboreal.
 

Aether Bunny

Arachnopeon
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
21
Just the opposite. The biggest killer of Avics is moist, stuffy cages. They need a combination of humidity and ventilation; stagnant air is lethal to them. People incorrectly give them moist substrate and then mist too much and too often. Then they soon have a soggy cage with condensation and the poor Avic dies. Avics are not for beginners. Get the care terrestrials down before you get a arboreal.
I see. As a noob that's exactly why I ask, as the internet really is replete with inaccurate and conflicting info on T husbandry. Now I will definitely get a pulchripes and perhaps an obligate burrower before I even consider adding an arboreal. Many thanks to everyone for the real information, I really appreciate it.
 

Ellenantula

Arachnoking
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
2,009
My first arboreal was an avic, but I think you are wise to gain more experience with some NW terrestrials before diving in.
To me, even the cheapest and most common T is still a pretty cool T.
I adore my G pulchripes -- have so enjoyed watching him grow up and start getting his adult patterning.
But I think you will be happy with whatever second T you decide on.
 

Tongue Flicker

Arachnobaron
Joined
Jan 26, 2014
Messages
462
Just the opposite. The biggest killer of Avics is moist, stuffy cages. They need a combination of humidity and ventilation; stagnant air is lethal to them. People incorrectly give them moist substrate and then mist too much and too often. Then they soon have a soggy cage with condensation and the poor Avic dies. Avics are not for beginners. Get the care terrestrials down before you get a arboreal.
This! .. :)
 

awiec

Arachnoprince
Joined
Feb 13, 2014
Messages
1,325
I'll answer all these questions, but know, that based on these questions I think its clear you should get the G. pulchripes and not the Avic. Pulchripes is a spectacular spider in every way...good eaters, beautiful coloration, active and easy to care for. This should be your next.

The best way to provide humidity is simply by providing a water dish, its as simple as that, care-sheets and such that you've read cause more confusion on the subject than anything. Most of us keep the substrate predominantly DRY, use a water dish for humidity and add a few droplets of water to the webbing weekly for easy drinking. Misting is useless as its effects are very short lived...misters re popular, but COMPLETELY unnecessary for keeping t's. Adding water by pouring, sprinkling or injecting water into the sub re far more effective.

Screen tops have NO PLACE with t's. They are dangerous as the t can get caught in them or even chew through them. On top of that, top ventilation kills any micro-climate you are trying to form, basically over-ventilating...screen tops are a horribly bad idea. Ventilation, especially for arboreals, needs to be cross ventilation....meaning venting needs to come from the sides, not the top.

If you keep the sub predominantly dry, mites wont be an issue. Proper ventilation helps with mites and such...if you get them, its not a big deal, just dry the enclosure out. Keeping the enclosure clean and free of dead prey or bolus' is also important.

The substrate doesn't just need to be changed normally...only in an emergency situation, like if you get a massive mite or mold infestation...but proper ventilation and husbandry basically prevents this.

A space heater is enough for the cold months, in the summer, you should not need any additional heating...I certainly hope you are not heating your rosie. DIrect sunlight won't hurt a t, it will just cause it to hide, like when its sunny in the wild. Sun isn't something to be worried about, people suggest keeping them away from windows and such because it can cause temps to rise dramatically...so in a window is a bad idea.

You DO NOT need EITHER a thermometer OR a hygrometer. Temps shouldn't be any concern as long as its not cold. Heating importance is not a critical aspect of t keeping, despite what the LPS would like you top believe....same for hygrometers....they actually cause more problems than they could EVER solve. See, people read these worthless care-sheets, believing they need some magical number specific humidity. So they get a hygrometer, and add water until their doohickey reads that magic number they are searching for....by then the enclosure is severely over moistened, which leads to their next thread they start...which is the classic "my dead avic" thread we see with unbelievable regularity.

I use an oil filled heater for my room for the winter months, it does dry air out a bit, so to compensate, I will add a little extra moisture to the substrate...but only a little.

G. pulchripes, however, is a better choice IMO.
Do what this man says,though allowing sunlight in the room where you keep spiders isn't a bad idea. I have a few that will sunbathe in the afternoon sun after a molt or to warm up for feeding time at night. If you truly care about spiders than you won't get an avic, a rosea prepares you for an avic like playing air guitar prepares you to play an actual guitar; they seem vaguely similar but really arent. Pulchripes or a more feisty nw like an lp wouldn't be bad and then you could graduate to pamphs, which are not only my favorite but require a tropical environment like an avic which would be more helpful when you do get one.
 

spiderbesideher

Arachnosquire
Joined
Jul 17, 2015
Messages
76
Thank you for this thread! ... Several years ago, one of my first slings was an A. avicularia which died about a week after arrival. I kept it in a pretzel jar with a screen lid I made. I see in retrospect I was doing a lot wrong... Daily misting, screen top etc. I am hoping to try again soon with an Avicularia species as they are very beautiful creatures and I have not tried an arboreal since. Thank you!
 

Poec54

Arachnoemperor
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
4,745
Avics are actually easy to keep with dry substrate, a water bowl, and cross ventilation. I only mist slings (weekly and only on their silk); those are kept in 16 oz deli cups. Taller cages aren't good for Avic slings (I put my other arboreals in 32 oz cups). If you add cork, plastic plants, etc for anchor points, they'll spin a silk sheet/tube, and that means your Avic is comfortable. Up in trees, Avics are used to breezes and things drying out after rains.
 

gypsy cola

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jan 16, 2014
Messages
192
G.pulchripes are fun creatures, grow fast (for a grammastola), great eaters, gorgeous, and cheap. My favorite T to recommend is brachypelma vagans. I wouldn't call
them a beginner species but you will learn A LOT from keeping them. Out of my collection I think it's the most gorgeous T.

As for the Avic, I wouldn't recommend it yet. Stick to New World terrestrials until you are more comfortable.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,926
While I did get more terrestrials before Avics myself (just didnt want Arboreals at the time).


Getting more terrestrials didn't help me or prepare me any better for owning Avics.

They are "completely" different than land loving Ts.

Driving a Ford isn't going to prepare you to drive a top fuel dragster.

Make your next T an Avic if you want to after careful research.
 

Stimpack

Arachnopeon
Joined
Dec 3, 2013
Messages
20
Wow I learned more on this thread than I did during the hours upon hours of reading care sheets and info sites before all the slings I purchased. Thank you all so much!
 

Storm76

Arachnoemperor
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
3,797
Wow I learned more on this thread than I did during the hours upon hours of reading care sheets and info sites before all the slings I purchased. Thank you all so much!
It's what this forum's here for. All of us learn something new on here over here reading :)
 
Top