Juvenile pulchripes Care

So I've decided to buy a juvenile Grammostola pulchripes, the vendor I'm ordering from says it has a 1.5 inch leg span. Before I order the T I want to have all the details of it's care planned out, the enclosure ready, etc. This will be my second T and my first time caring for a juvenile (my first was an adult when I bought her). Due to my lack of experience (one year) and the lack of reliable info on the net I ask the good people of this forum to answer my questions to ensure that I am able to raise a happy, healthy son or daughter .

Should I use a small enclosure like a critter keeper for a juvenile?

Will it be ok to feed crickets to a 1.5" T? I understand that this species are good eaters.

Are the temp requirements for a juvie different than for an adult, or is room temp ok?

Is a very shallow dish ok for providing water to a juvenile?

Is there anything else I should know about caring for juveniles and for this species in general?

Thanks to everyone for reading and for any legit info on T husbandry, all replies are appreciated.

Aether Bunny said:

So I've decided to buy a juvenile Grammostola pulchripes, the vendor I'm ordering from says it has a 1.5 inch leg span. Before I order the T I want to have all the details of it's care planned out, the enclosure ready, etc. This will be my second T and my first time caring for a juvenile (my first was an adult when I bought her). Due to my lack of experience (one year) and the lack of reliable info on the net I ask the good people of this forum to answer my questions to ensure that I am able to raise a happy, healthy son or daughter .

Should I use a small enclosure like a critter keeper for a juvenile?

Will it be ok to feed crickets to a 1.5" T? I understand that this species are good eaters.

Are the temp requirements for a juvie different than for an adult, or is room temp ok?

Is a very shallow dish ok for providing water to a juvenile?

Is there anything else I should know about caring for juveniles and for this species in general?

Thanks to everyone for reading and for any legit info on T husbandry, all replies are appreciated.

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You could have just asked this question on your last thread that was already discussing the subject.:wink:

2" is generally the minimum size for a KK. Just get a 16oz deli cup, punch a few rings of ventilation holes (I also put a few on the lid, but you have to be careful not to put too many on the lid).

Yes, you can feed any size t crickets, you just need to feed the right size. For a 1.5", small crickets will be no problem for it. Wax worms and mealworms are also good feeders for slings and juvies. This species, being a good eater, should be able to take down its own prey, but some smaller ones aren't the best hunters, if you get one of these, just feed pre-killed crickets...also a good option if the t is nearing pre-molt, a time when refusal of food is common.

Room temp is fine, but I like to keep slings at least a little warmer to both increase appetite and growth rates. As long as you are at 70 or better, it won't be of any issue, and with summer around the corner, you shouldn't be worrying much about temps.

Yes, provide a water dish, I give mine dishes as soon as they are in an enclosure that's big enough to allow one...this can be anywhere from 1/2-1" depending on the species...by 1" there's no good reason not to offer a water dish. The lid from a water bottle is about the perfect size.

Aside from this, just make sure there is ample substrate so the t can burrow, pulchripes are great burrowers, especially when small. Give it a small hide, which can be a small piece of wood (even a flat piece will work fine) or even a leaf...something to get under. A little moss is also a good addition, as that can be kept moist. I'd keep the majority of the enclosure dry and just moisten a small area which should be rotated on occasion to prevent mold from taking hold in a constantly moist area.

Keep patient and don't fret if the t doesn't eat for a month or two at times, and know that in time, it will be feeding heavily again and fasting won't cause it to starve to death.

cold blood said:

You could have just asked this question on your last thread that was already discussing the subject.:wink:

.

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Well, in hindsight I guess I could've done that. Anyhow that takes care of all my questions, thank you very much sir. I'm psyched to get my new T now, can't wait to have a dinner plate-sized monster. If it's a girl I think I'll name her Isabella or Catherine. I sure hope it's a girl... ray:

Don't expect 8-9", more like 7-8" for a biiiiig specimen

7" is a freaking huge spider, mind you

I'd expect 6-6.5" for a male and the 7 inch range for a female.

Well, I finally brought my new baby home today. I got an unsexed 1.75" G. pulchripes from an expo, I'll post some pics sometime soon.

One more question: Is dry coco fiber suitable for this species? The vendor who sold it to me (Arachnophiliacs) told me black earth or organic topsoil is a better choice, as coco tends to dehydrate T's due to its being so absorbent of water (though he said Grammostola's are fairly resistant to this). However, Tarantula Canada recommends coco as it's mildly acidic which makes it resistant to mold, parasites etc. Furthermore I've been using coco fiber for my G. porteri for over a year with no problems. Is this just a case of two experts telling me what works for them, and both substrates are ok?

Aether Bunny said:

Well, I finally brought my new baby home today. I got an unsexed 1.75" G. pulchripes from an expo, I'll post some pics sometime soon.

One more question: Is dry coco fiber suitable for this species? The vendor who sold it to me (Arachnophiliacs) told me black earth or organic topsoil is a better choice, as coco tends to dehydrate T's due to its being so absorbent of water (though he said Grammostola's are fairly resistant to this). However, Tarantula Canada recommends coco as it's mildly acidic which makes it resistant to mold, parasites etc. Furthermore I've been using coco fiber for my G. porteri for over a year with no problems. Is this just a case of two experts telling me what works for them, and both substrates are ok?

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Substrate is more of personal preference. Coco dehydrating t's because its absorbs water is TOTALLY illogical. Its probably the number 1 used substrate in the hobby. I prefer soil because of both the look and cost. If you want to raise the acidity, just mix in some spangum moss with the soil....or mix coco fiber with the soil....I've done both.

That said, dry sub and a water dish is about all you need to worry about...mold won't be an issue in that type of enclosure. You can occasionally moisten an area for it and rotate the damp spot....I leave it dry for extended periods of time between adding moisture though, so its predominantly dry.

If you have many t's cost becomes an issue with a 4 quart bag of coco costing 5 times as much as a 40lb bag of soil (less than $1.50).

I avoid soil labeled as "organic" as that often means natural fertilizers, which is basically oop:...you don't want to risk that in an enclosure. Just buy the cheap stuff and check the "ingredients" to ensure a lack of pesticides and fertilizers.

cold blood said:

I avoid soil labeled as "organic" as that often means natural fertilizers, which is basically oop:...you don't want to risk that in an enclosure. Just buy the cheap stuff and check the "ingredients" to ensure a lack of pesticides and fertilizers.

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That's exactly why I ended up going with coco: all of the "organic" soil I found listed some kind of fertilizers as ingredients, which I immediately distrusted. Plus the recommendation from Tarantula Canada sealed the deal. Thanks for the reply, I'm a bit nervous about the new T as I've never raised a juvenile before so it's nice to know s/he's in a good habitat. Now my main concern is it's gender: fingers crossed for a female.

I'll be putting the wee bugger in his semi-permanent home tomorrow, I'll post some pics then. S/he already has nice markings...

I put mine in little display boxes on coco. Mine are also in enclosures that some consider to be to large but I put a lot if little hides and fake leaves and when I watch them they seem to enjoy the space. I got some boxes online and some at a hobby store.

I just attempted to re-house, when I gently nudged him with a q-tip on his rear leg he grabbed it, shifted his legs a little, but refused to move. This shouldn't be a cause for concern, correct? I figure I'll leave him alone until tomorrow and try again, I suppose the day was a little nervousl for him (and me)...

After more observation I've found that he won't stop climbing the walls of his tank, which leads me to believe that he dislikes the dry coco fiber substrate (the vendor kept him on black soil). It seems the only time he comes down is when he's tired from clinging to the wall.

I couldn't find any organic topsoil or black earth that was free of fertilisers etc, so I'm planning on using a 50/50 mix of certified organic sphagnum peat moss and coco fiber, with a layer of straight moss on the top so it feels more like soil and nothing like coco fiber. I used a brick to pack it down so it's not overly loose or fluffy. Is this a reasonable plan, or is there a reason not to use sphagnum that I'm not aware of?

Aether Bunny said:

After more observation I've found that he won't stop climbing the walls of his tank, which leads me to believe that he dislikes the dry coco fiber substrate (the vendor kept him on black soil). It seems the only time he comes down is when he's tired from clinging to the wall.

I couldn't find any organic topsoil or black earth that was free of fertilisers etc, so I'm planning on using a 50/50 mix of certified organic sphagnum peat moss and coco fiber, with a layer of straight moss on the top so it feels more like soil and nothing like coco fiber. I used a brick to pack it down so it's not overly loose or fluffy. Is this a reasonable plan, or is there a reason not to use sphagnum that I'm not aware of?

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Just leave it be, it will be fine on the coco fiber, t's take time to acclimate to new or re-done homes....climbing is typical of a t in a new home...give it time, it needs to start laying down strands of webbing...some t's acclimate in hours, others take weeks or months. Don't freak, just leave the t be, its just fine.

Long fiber sphagnum moss is something most utilize in enclosures both for decoration and because it holds moisture well...I even mix a little in the soil before I set up an enclosure.

cold blood said:

Just leave it be, it will be fine on the coco fiber, t's take time to acclimate to new or re-done homes....climbing is typical of a t in a new home...give it time, it needs to start laying down strands of webbing...some t's acclimate in hours, others take weeks or months. Don't freak, just leave the t be, its just fine.

Long fiber sphagnum moss is something most utilize in enclosures both for decoration and because it holds moisture well...I even mix a little in the soil before I set up an enclosure.

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Well damnit, I wish I'd have known that this morning. I went out and bought a bale of moss and made up a new enclosure w 50/50 substrate. I guess I can still use it though as it's a bit bigger, has a hide and will last until he's big enough for his adult home...

Well, you were right. The little guy came down off the walls last night and has stayed on the substrate ever since. He moves around a bit but mostly sits still, nice and calm. If he stays on the ground and remains calm would it be advisable to offer him a cricket in a day or two, and start a weekly feeding schedule? I figure he might be getting hungry after the stress of the move and exertion of clinging to the wall...

Go ahead, they have an excellent feeding response.

cold blood said:

Go ahead, they have an excellent feeding response.

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Excellent. Thanks to everyone for helping me get the little one established in his/her new home.