Phormictopus and pamphobeteus care

WeightedAbyss75

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I have looked up care on these guys, but I just want to make sure of the info. Both genus need about 60-70% humidity ( probably mist or overflow water dish? ), both species usually grow very fast, get very big as females and usually the males are are more colorful (not that I'd go for a male). Lastly, are there any reason for a beginner to get a tarantula in Pamphobeteus over Phormictopus or vice versa?

Thanks, Weighted
 

Tomoran

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I currently keep seven species of Phormictopus, and I really don't worry too much about the humidity (in fact, I have no idea what the humidity is in their enclosures). Species in this genus seem to be very hardy. As slings, they like to dig, and I will give them deep moist substrate and water dishes. However, once they hit about 2" or so (and it doesn't take long) I don't worry so much about keeping the sub moist. I'll overflow the water bowls a bit, and keep a corner moist, but they don't seem to care. They grow like weeds, molting frequently (if temps allow) gaining quite a bit of size between each molt. My larger specimens are kept as terrestrials with hides, a few inches of substrate, and large water dishes. Although I'll use a water bottle with holes in the top to make it "rain" every once in a while, I'll let things dry up in between. As long as they have water dishes, they do fine. They CAN have quite the attitudes, which could keep them from being an ideal T for a beginner, however, their hardiness is certainly a plus. P. cancerides is readily available and often less expensive than most Pampho species, so that might be a consideration.


I do keep two species of Pamphobeteus, and I'm a bit more careful to keep part of the substrate moist. Again, they are fast growers with great appetites and seem to be quite hardy. They also get fairly large and can be a bit skittish.
 

WeightedAbyss75

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I currently keep seven species of Phormictopus, and I really don't worry too much about the humidity (in fact, I have no idea what the humidity is in their enclosures). Species in this genus seem to be very hardy. As slings, they like to dig, and I will give them deep moist substrate and water dishes. However, once they hit about 2" or so (and it doesn't take long) I don't worry so much about keeping the sub moist. I'll overflow the water bowls a bit, and keep a corner moist, but they don't seem to care. They grow like weeds, molting frequently (if temps allow) gaining quite a bit of size between each molt. My larger specimens are kept as terrestrials with hides, a few inches of substrate, and large water dishes. Although I'll use a water bottle with holes in the top to make it "rain" every once in a while, I'll let things dry up in between. As long as they have water dishes, they do fine. They CAN have quite the attitudes, which could keep them from being an ideal T for a beginner, however, their hardiness is certainly a plus. P. cancerides is readily available and often less expensive than most Pampho species, so that might be a consideration.


I do keep two species of Pamphobeteus, and I'm a bit more careful to keep part of the substrate moist. Again, they are fast growers with great appetites and seem to be quite hardy. They also get fairly large and can be a bit skittish.
Thanks, I was thinking about getting one or 2 of them. The main thing that worried me was the humidity, but if they're as hardy as you say I'll probally keep them like my B. Emelia only with probably a bigger water dish. I just want a T I don't have to wait 12 years to grow to 3"+ (*cough, *cough B. Emelia and G. Pulchripes)
 

Shawnee

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I currently keep seven species of Phormictopus, and I really don't worry too much about the humidity (in fact, I have no idea what the humidity is in their enclosures). Species in this genus seem to be very hardy. As slings, they like to dig, and I will give them deep moist substrate and water dishes. However, once they hit about 2" or so (and it doesn't take long) I don't worry so much about keeping the sub moist. I'll overflow the water bowls a bit, and keep a corner moist, but they don't seem to care. They grow like weeds, molting frequently (if temps allow) gaining quite a bit of size between each molt. My larger specimens are kept as terrestrials with hides, a few inches of substrate, and large water dishes. Although I'll use a water bottle with holes in the top to make it "rain" every once in a while, I'll let things dry up in between. As long as they have water dishes, they do fine. They CAN have quite the attitudes, which could keep them from being an ideal T for a beginner, however, their hardiness is certainly a plus. P. cancerides is readily available and often less expensive than most Pampho species, so that might be a consideration.


I do keep two species of Pamphobeteus, and I'm a bit more careful to keep part of the substrate moist. Again, they are fast growers with great appetites and seem to be quite hardy. They also get fairly large and can be a bit skittish.
This is spot on. I only have one pamphobeteus, but they definitely appreciate moisture in an area and I've physically seen mine drink from the water bowl. And she is quite skittish, as well. But she's a good eater, really pretty, good size, and not hard to take care of at all. The biggest hurdle is the initial price
 

WeightedAbyss75

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The one I would be interested in is the sp. Platyomma, but the only one I've seen for sale is the 4.5" subadult from KtBG. The only problem is that it's $200 (which is WAY too much for me). Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a species called the steely blue? My pet store sells one for 150 and looks pretty good, but might be a little overpriced.

---------- Post added 11-28-2015 at 12:12 AM ----------

At least that's for the Pamphobeteus species.
 

cold blood

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The one I would be interested in is the sp. Platyomma, but the only one I've seen for sale is the 4.5" subadult from KtBG. The only problem is that it's $200 (which is WAY too much for me). Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a species called the steely blue? My pet store sells one for 150 and looks pretty good, but might be a little overpriced.
P. antininous is the bolivian steely blue....one of the pamphs with the most attitude. With as fast as they grow and as much of a joy it is to rasise them, I would strongly suggest getting slings....you could get a few, or at least 2 shipped, for $150.

As for humidity, I feel like I say this 3 times a day, but beware anyone or any care sheet that tells you that any t requires a number specific humidity to be maintained....beware of care-sheets altogether actually. This kind of info simply over-complicates things all around. Keep a decent sized water dish full and keep the sub moist (not wet), only letting it dry completely for short periods of time as they are prone to dehydration...while you will hear of many keeping them bone dry, its certainly not what I would suggest for either of the genus's you mentioned.

Probably two of the hungriest genus's you will ever come across....prey barely has a chance to hit the ground.

The males may be more colorful, but keep in mind that this is ONLY after they mature, prior to maturity the male will look basically the same. Once they get that amazing color, you'll probably be packing him to send to a female.
 

WeightedAbyss75

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I see, thanks for the info. I saw a pair of P. Cancerides for sale, so I will probably pick those up sooner rather than later. They seem like a great "birdeater" to start off with, having a monster apatite and a pretty cool coloration even as females (as well as a HUGE size I heard, up to 8"+ and even 9 1/2")
 

Poec54

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I see, thanks for the info. I saw a pair of P. Cancerides for sale, so I will probably pick those up sooner rather than later. They seem like a great "birdeater" to start off with, having a monster apatite and a pretty cool coloration even as females (as well as a HUGE size I heard, up to 8"+ and even 9 1/2")

Let's not get carried away. I've seen hundreds of cancerides when they were coming in from Haiti in large numbers in the 1970's and 1980's, and have never seen one over 7". My landlord was a reptile importer and actually went there himself. He paid kids 25 cents for each cancerides (almost all were adults), while he stayed in the hotel pool. They were one of the few common species in pet stores in the 1970's.

There's a lot of inflated sizes in this hobby used for 'marketing purposes.' The most common offender is L parahybana, with ridiculous sizes being parroted around the internet by people who have never seen one anywhere near that large.

'Pair of cancerides'? Adults? Juveniles? Slings? Siblings? You can't pair up siblings. Unless growth rates are seriously manipulated, females usually need to be 2 years older than the male to have a chance of getting a sac. These animals are very different than reptiles.
 

Nicolas C

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(...), get very big as females and usually the males are are more colorful (...)
Just for the record, all Phormictopus spp. and Pamphobeteus spp. are not the same size: for instance, P cancerides is bigger than P platus, and P antinous is bigger than P ultramarinus. Not all are giants! But yeah, P cancerides has a decent size, maybe not 9.5 inches, but bigger than a standard B smithi... And they are truly beautiful, even the females. If you have an opportunity to get one, do it, they are great.
 

Poec54

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Just for the record, all Phormictopus spp. and Pamphobeteus spp. are not the same size: for instance, P cancerides is bigger than P platus, and P antinous is bigger than P ultramarinus. Not all are giants! But yeah, P cancerides has a decent size, maybe not 9.5 inches, but bigger than a standard B smithi... And they are truly beautiful, even the females. If you have an opportunity to get one, do it, they are great.

Right, some Pamphos are 6", the average probably being around 7". A few species can hit 8-9". From what I've seen, Phormictopus is a pretty much a 6-7" genus, with occasional individuals getting larger.
 

WeightedAbyss75

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Let's not get carried away. I've seen hundreds of cancerides when they were coming in from Haiti in large numbers in the 1970's and 1980's, and have never seen one over 7". My landlord was a reptile importer and actually went there himself. He paid kids 25 cents for each cancerides (almost all were adults), while he stayed in the hotel pool. They were one of the few common species in pet stores in the 1970's.

There's a lot of inflated sizes in this hobby used for 'marketing purposes.' The most common offender is L parahybana, with ridiculous sizes being parroted around the internet by people who have never seen one anywhere near that large.

'Pair of cancerides'? Adults? Juveniles? Slings? Siblings? You can't pair up siblings. Unless growth rates are seriously manipulated, females usually need to be 2 years older than the male to have a chance of getting a sac. These animals are very different than reptiles.
Not really planning on breeding them, but they are juvies anyway. I just love the male coloration (purple right?) and the female size. They are both about 1 3/4"
 

Tomoran

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Thanks, I was thinking about getting one or 2 of them. The main thing that worried me was the humidity, but if they're as hardy as you say I'll probally keep them like my B. Emelia only with probably a bigger water dish. I just want a T I don't have to wait 12 years to grow to 3"+ (*cough, *cough B. Emelia and G. Pulchripes)
When I got my first P. cancerides slings a couple years ago, I was worried about the moisture requirements. However, they have proven to be very hardy and adaptable. The first time my slings molted, I was blown away by the size jump; it's one of the reasons I love this genus. They grow out of their "sling" stage quite fast.
 

Sana

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Have care with the notion that Pamphs and Phormics can be kept drier. I recently had an issue with a P. cancerides dehydrating in an enclosure with fairly dry substrate. I hadn't intended for it to get that dry but I wasn't paying as much attention as I should have been especially after having turned on the furnace a few days before. I failed to account for the speed that the water would evaporate out of this dish and substrate. Fortunately I caught my error soon enough to correct by raising the humidity and sitting a full water dish next to the spider which I refilled every hour until it stopped drinking it dry. It was a bad spider mommy moment for sure. I would definitely lean to the side of moist substrate after that experience.
 

Tomoran

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Very good point about the furnace. The furnace kicked on over here last month; it's amazing how quickly it dries things out. I now have a humidifier in the room to add a bit more moisture to the air. I should reiterate, I let my older Phormics' enclosures dry out a bit in between, but they always have water bowls. The slings I always keep moist.
 
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Sana

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I'm keeping mine moist at the moment no matter the size. They both seem to appreciate it quite a bit.
 

Tomoran

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Whatever works for you! :) I certainly wouldn't dissuade someone from keeping them on the moister end, and I do make it rain once a month or so. In my experience, they do quite well if it dries out a bit. I just don't find them to be a species I have to obsess over moisture with, which was my point to the OP.
 

Nicolas C

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I share the same experience as you, Tomoran. I keep mine on the dry side, without any issues. They are quite hardy. It doesn't mean keeping them with more moisture is wrong, of course not. But it wasn't a concern for me until now.


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cold blood

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Yeah but the op is in N. Illinios...his furnace is now running full tilt and the ambient air outside is also becoming increasingly dry as temps drop outside....keeping it dry when conditions outside the enclosure are increasingly arid is just a bad idea IMHO. I live in the same climate, and while I do let them dry out, its only for a few days, most of the time their substrate is moist, or at least half of the substrate is at a minimum. When I moisten them, I don't mess around, I pour water onto the deep sub (at the edges) so that it soaks in and moistens the sub at the bottom, which will help hold the moisture longer in arid situations...like winter in the north.

During summer, when its more humid in my (and the ops) area, I do allow it to dry and moisten it a whole lot less than I do at this time of year.

A guy in Florida for example, will need different conditions and face different conditions than someone in the north during winter...so where you live will play a role in how one can keep them....just something to keep in mind.
 

Poec54

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A guy in Florida for example, will need different conditions and face different conditions than someone in the north during winter...so where you live will play a role in how one can keep them....just something to keep in mind.

Right. Keeping conditions have to be adjusted for the local climates and what happens indoors to modify temps and humidities. There is no one-size-fits-all, which is one reason for all the conflicting advice.
 

BobBarley

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Just wondering, is the care for the Xenethis species pretty much the same as the Pamphos?
 
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