T. blondi husbandry

With all these T. blondi molting problems has anyone ever stopped to think that maybe we just have the husbandry specs for this species all wrong?

Maybe if everyone with a T.blondi posts how they keep them, temp and humid, how often they feed and whether or not they've had molting problems, maybe we can pinpoint a common behavior on our end that could be causing this. I was wondering if maybe powerfeeding weren't to blame? The ab on that guy did look a little large, but I've only just got my own T. blondi and he looks pretty big too, so I really don't know.

i keep mine at about 75 degrees on 5 inches of slightly damp peat with a water dish thats large enough for her to put her whole body in if she wanted.

Instead of feeding her one big meal a week I feed her 2 smaller ones so that her abdomen doesn't get too big too fast

ive only been through 4 molts with her, but I havn't had a problem yet

I've wondered before if it could have anything to do with the region in which the T is being kept (temperature and humidity).... regardless of how the owner tries to re-create.

It'd be interesting to see some data of where the Ts are being kept and frequency of molting problems.

A T blondi was on my wish-list but lately, after seeing so many molting porblems I'm not sure if I want one anymore.
I'm wondering if a lot of these T's are CB or WC that are having molting issues. maybe the stress of being taken out of their home enviroment is too much on that speices.

becca81 said:

I've wondered before if it could have anything to do with the region in which the T is being kept (temperature and humidity).... regardless of how the owner tries to re-create.

It'd be interesting to see some data of where the Ts are being kept and frequency of molting problems.

Click to expand...

Im wondering if there are more instances of abdominal problems or legs getting stuck..

my theory on it is, people tend to feed blondi's huge meals and it stretches their exo too much too fast, sort of like stretchmarks in humans that would make molting rough?

Im probably wrong, of course... but its sort of like a scar, and i have a t with a scar, and when she molts, the exciva sticks to the scar and i usually have to dab a paint brush on it, or a couple of water droplets to help her out

im wondering if its a similar situation, or maybe blondi's simply need more humidity than we provide?

If i could afford another blondi sling, I would love to keep one on dry peat with a dish, and see if there were any differences

i power feed my T. blondi. so far hasn't molted in my care, so should i stop power feeding it?

becca81 said:

I've wondered before if it could have anything to do with the region in which the T is being kept (temperature and humidity).... regardless of how the owner tries to re-create.

Click to expand...

Or could the problem be something we have even less control over, like differences in altitude?

Mandi said:

Im wondering if there are more instances of abdominal problems or legs getting stuck..

my theory on it is, people tend to feed blondi's huge meals and it stretches their exo too much too fast, sort of like stretchmarks in humans that would make molting rough?

Im probably wrong, of course... but its sort of like a scar, and i have a t with a scar, and when she molts, the exciva sticks to the scar and i usually have to dab a paint brush on it, or a couple of water droplets to help her out

im wondering if its a similar situation, or maybe blondi's simply need more humidity than we provide?

If i could afford another blondi sling, I would love to keep one on dry peat with a dish, and see if there were any differences

Click to expand...

that theory totally makes sense to me... food for thought

Varden said:

Or could the problem be something we have even less control over, like differences in altitude?

Click to expand...

I didn't think of this, but good point..

If it's of any use, here is my two pennies worth!!!

I currently have 3 blondi's, two of which are 4" juveniles and one is an adult female.

I will concentrate on my 'big girl', as I have had her since she was a 1.5" captive bred sling, so consequently have seen her moult many times and as yet have not had any problems.

Her setup is a 24" glass tank as follows:

Temp - 80 degrees

Humidity - No idea! as I don't bother with humidity gauges, I've always found them fairly inaccurate. I spray her tank as and when I remember, which equates to about once or twice a week, but this is variable. I always direct the spray onto the back glass of her tank where the heatpad (which is on the outside) warms the water and subsequently increases the air humidity, this is obvious by the tank glass misting up.

Substrate - About 7-8" deep, it's a 70/30 (approx) mix of moss peat/vermiculite. Buried into this is a large burrow, which has a reasonable slope leading down into it. The substrate always remains moist but never wet, I never deliberately spray the substrate as I find the air humidity helps, although it is inevitable that some water does run onto the substrate.

Feeding - As with the humidity, I don't have a routine but as and when. The feeding is very variable. She has mainly adult crickets but very occasionally I give her a mouse (normally after she has moulted). She has a large abdomen, but certainly not grossly distended. It is round in shape.

She has a small water dish, which is about 4" in diameter.

I also keep my other 2 blondi's exactly the same, but smaller tanks obviously!! I also have two T.apophysis slings which again are kept the same. I have never had any moulting probs from any of them.

Hopefully the above will be of some use.

Oh! by the way, regarding the altitude, I live by the sea