Stainless steel perforated sheets for DIY lid for Exo-terra

[Matt Man]

Whatever works. One of the major piss offs in machine shops are those BLEEP burrs. Can be sharper than razors and the cause of most of the blood leaks on an average day in the shops.- > Oh great, I'm bleeding. When did that happen?

Why I use thicker acrylic. Still sharp edges but too thick for a claw to get a grip

 

[Kada]

I keep thinking about all the posts of people's critters getting stuck or doing all sorts of bizarre maneuvers. I suppose one major reason I've never had a desire to keep animals. I just don't want to feel responsible if they get injured due to some dumb move or oversight on my part. Animals can spectacularly excel in maiming themselves. They don't need any direct or indirect help that way from humans.

Indeed, it's a worry. That's why I like the punched metal. At least the places I have bought from, they are all quite smooth and with round holes pretty hard for the critters to get stuck. Haven't found a better material yet for vents in my opinion. Acrylic tends to be sharper when I drill hols, and even melted holes tend to have little hairs and whips which seem a bit more dangerous.

The post above mentioned "honed". I always assumed it was standard to be smooth, but seems it isn't. Best to ask/check first if it is, the metal is smooth as anything and quite safe

 

[The Snark]

The post above mentioned "honed". I always assumed it was standard to be smooth, but seems it isn't.

Teknickles, a lot depends on the mill turning out the product. The perforating rollers cost a freaking fortune. Like one meter across can go for up to $100,000 depending on raw material which can be anything from disposable cold rolled and heat treated to high end Hardox 400 series. Some mills change the rollers every few weeks on out to until the punch outs don't come clean with burrs all over. Then some run the precut sheets under a sanding belt to wear the burrs down and some can't be bothered.
In this day of cheap crap everywhere it's best to patronize a reputable company or inspect before buying.
In that image I reposted you can see how the punch raised the metals around the hole then honing ground the areas down. Bright circles around each hole.

 

[Kada]

Teknickles, a lot depends on the mill turning out the product. The perforating rollers cost a freaking fortune. Like one meter across can go for up to $100,000 depending on raw material which can be anything from disposable cold rolled and heat treated to high end Hardox 400 series. Some mills change the rollers every few weeks on out to until the punch outs don't come clean with burrs all over. Then some run the precut sheets under a sanding belt to wear the burrs down and some can't be bothered.
In this day of cheap crap everywhere it's best to patronize a reputable company or inspect before buying.
In that image I reposted you can see how the punch raised the metals around the hole then honing ground the areas down. Bright circles around each hole.

Definitely support companies turning out proper products! I guess I should count myself lucky it seems. In all my years, never had a single problem with punched stainless steel or aluminum(I just buy whichever is cheaper given the stock prices). Scraps or full sheets. Touch wood! It is easy to check before payment though. I just use my hand, easy to tell if smooth or not. I think for folks that mail order this requires a few more words via phine/email etc. But still seems an easy answer from the manufacturer.

Plus, it's a safe material that literally will outlast our own lifetimes. I am a huge fan! Loads of companies now that do custom designs and such as well. For those with some extra $, easy to get custom shapes/designs etc.

 

[The Snark]

guess I should count myself lucky it seems.

I keep thinking about a friend who called me a few months ago. Told me I had to come to his shop to check something out. On his welding table he had an assortment of pieces of plasma cut sheet metal. He put a couple of piece aside and handed me the helmet and MIG with the instructions, "Make a butt weld." I did. Then "Make it real strong!" So I ran two more passes. Then he put the thing in the vice and gave it a hard tug with his hand. At the edge of my weld the metal cracked beside the bead the entire length. WTF??? We spent a half hour dialing the MIG up and down trying TIG and I even ran some 7018. Cracks beside the beads every time.
Not sure what that crap was but it didn't even get close to qualifying as real sheet steel.

Digression
(Have lots of fun with my friend. Teacher at a tech college who does fabrication on the side. Some relative of his is well connected in the government which has afforded him to collect antique German and British machines. We drool over the old school craftsmanship more than actually running them.)

Utlra pro steel banger: Razborgruz guys know their stuff.

 

[jrh3]

Indeed, it's a worry. That's why I like the punched metal. At least the places I have bought from, they are all quite smooth and with round holes pretty hard for the critters to get stuck. Haven't found a better material yet for vents in my opinion. Acrylic tends to be sharper when I drill hols, and even melted holes tend to have little hairs and whips which seem a bit more dangerous.

The post above mentioned "honed". I always assumed it was standard to be smooth, but seems it isn't. Best to ask/check first if it is, the metal is smooth as anything and quite safe

I agree, I would take metal and glass 10 out of 10 over acrylic. IMO it is superior for long term use over acrylic. I don’t even like acrylic because it scratches too easy.
I was a manager over the machine shop where I got the material I use and we never received anything in with burs on it. Maybe outside of the US has quality control issues but nothing we ever order has burs as previously mentioned.