Tarantula care for my collection.

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
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Feb 21, 2024
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Hey everyone
I'm new to the hobby with about three weeks roughly of experience! I'm really loving this hobby and I love all my Ts. I have 19 of them and I'm looking at getting one more to male it even cause odd numbers are bad luck. Lol.

Anyways. I've done a bit of research but I'd like to at least get a second opinion on my Ts moisture requirements. I'm okay with my housing otherwise in terms of substrate needed and height and width etc. Just moisture is my concern. So my Ts are.

Aphonopelma hentzi
Pterinochilus murinus
Lasiodora parahybana
Phormictopus sp Dominican Purple
Ephebopus uatuman
Psalmopoeus victori
Grammostola pulchra
Grammostola pulchripes
Acanthoscurria geniculata
Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens
Heteroscodra maculata
Lasiocyano sazimai
Tliltocatl albopilosus
Avicularia Avicularia
Phormictopus auratus
Hysterocrates gigas
Psalmopoeus irminia
Brachypelma boehmei

I'm looking at adding either a P. Muticus((King Baboon)). Or the H. Pulcripes.

Anyways. From my understanding of moisture.

Both Grammas, the Brachy, A. Henzi, and C. Cyan are all dry.

My E. Uataman and my H. Gigas are both heavy moisture requirements. Lots of moisture at the bottom of enclosure.

My P. Irminia, P. Victori, and H. Mac are all semi arboreal that like moisture but not tons of substrate so misting is good for them. Just don't mist the T itself.

Avic avic is Dry dry dry.

The others are all overflow the water dish types.

I'd really like some help in my research or some confirmations that I am doing alright!
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
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Dec 8, 2006
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For what you wrote dry etc, that works for me with the species I owned.

I have never misted any species. This includes my irminia and AF H mac. It wasn't necessary.

Also, with that many Ts and so little experience- not the wisest approach to be honest. I wouldn't be surprised if some die.
 

fcat

Arachnobaron
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458
Welcome to the boards.

Yikes! 19 in three weeks. This isn't an impulse control thing is it? Nothing is good in excess, not even oxygen or water.

You are missing the most important parameter for your request...their size. Because slings and adults have different requirements.

I don't mean to be surly, 3 weeks isn't enough time to know if what you're doing is right or slowly killing them. You can keep a lot of species dry. I adopted one that hadn't had a drop of water in nearly 6 months. They can take a while to die.

Too much moisture and lack of ventilation will kill them quickly. I feel like a lot of husbandry mistakes get written off as "mysterious deaths," and a swamped out T is a perfect example because they look normal...they died by slow suffocation.

Get through a few successful molts before you expand any further. The entire time I've been writing this I've been trying to think of one thing that would be healthy for a person to acquire 19 of in 3 weeks. I can't. THEY ARENT POKEMON they are living creatures that given the choice would have nothing to do with us. This is up there with someone buying 19 pairs of shoes in 3 weeks but I would just find them vapid. And I have as little regard for shoes as I do vapid people lol.
 

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
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Messages
26
Welcome to the boards.

Yikes! 19 in three weeks. This isn't an impulse control thing is it? Nothing is good in excess, not even oxygen or water.

You are missing the most important parameter for your request...their size. Because slings and adults have different requirements.

I don't mean to be surly, 3 weeks isn't enough time to know if what you're doing is right or slowly killing them. You can keep a lot of species dry. I adopted one that hadn't had a drop of water in nearly 6 months. They can take a while to die.

Too much moisture and lack of ventilation will kill them quickly. I feel like a lot of husbandry mistakes get written off as "mysterious deaths," and a swamped out T is a perfect example because they look normal...they died by slow suffocation.

Get through a few successful molts before you expand any further. The entire time I've been writing this I've been trying to think of one thing that would be healthy for a person to acquire 19 of in 3 weeks. I can't. THEY ARENT POKEMON they are living creatures that given the choice would have nothing to do with us. This is up there with someone buying 19 pairs of shoes in 3 weeks but I would just find them vapid. And I have as little regard for shoes as I do vapid people lol.
I'll keep it in mind. I have a great collection and maybe part of it is impulse buying. I think that'd how humans kn hobbies tend to do. It's always an impulse to get another snake. Another shoe
Another T.

That being said. I fully understand and I hear you and I do appreciate the more.... polite approach. I'm more likely to listen to politeness.


As for size, I'm fully aware of the sizes my Ts will get in year or two. I'm prepared and ready. Sterilites are great.

And I know the rule. Moist but not swampy. If I'm making mud, I'm doing it wrong.

And ventilation can never be stressed enough. More cross ventilation. If you think it's enough holes, add some more.

Again. I do appreciate the politeness and thanks for having me here.

For what you wrote dry etc, that works for me with the species I owned.

I have never misted any species. This includes my irminia and AF H mac. It wasn't necessary.

Also, with that many Ts and so little experience- not the wisest approach to be honest. I wouldn't be surprised if some die.
Overall, the moisture requirements I am pretty good on right? Misting is more a personal choice. I know it's never required.

Would those ones I mist just be better off with water bowl overfill?
 

fcat

Arachnobaron
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458
I'll keep it in mind. I have a great collection and maybe part of it is impulse buying. I think that'd how humans kn hobbies tend to do. It's always an impulse to get another snake. Another shoe
Another T.

That being said. I fully understand and I hear you and I do appreciate the more.... polite approach. I'm more likely to listen to politeness.


As for size, I'm fully aware of the sizes my Ts will get in year or two. I'm prepared and ready. Sterilites are great.

And I know the rule. Moist but not swampy. If I'm making mud, I'm doing it wrong.

And ventilation can never be stressed enough. More cross ventilation. If you think it's enough holes, add some more.

Again. I do appreciate the politeness and thanks for having me here.
I mean their size can dictate husbandry requirements. Like if you have 1/2" G rosea versus an adult. Would help tailor the advice you receive.

FWIW everyone in my collection has at least a damp corner, even my adult G rosea and GBBs, I just make sure to let it dry out in between waterings. My Brachypelmas get a damp 1/3, usually as a result of me trying to keep the lower levels damp (so when looking at the side of your enclosure the top level of substrate is always lighter than the lower levels).

I never mist but in addition to a water dish I will dribble a few drops of water near where my T has been loitering, if it's an extended amount of time and I haven't seen a trek or dent in the water dish. I don't trust any of them to drink from it but many do. They can drink from damp substrate, so it's a nice insurance plan provided you have your ventilation dialed in...and don't forget there is a relationship between humidity and temperature in case you find yourself encountering a new weather season soon. :)

Back on the size, the substrate depth will matter too, especially for those that have burrowing tendencies as slings/juvies but less inclined as adults (irminia) but substrate does help hold moisture in the place they seek it, and many use it to construct walls. Be generous even with the adults (I still give 1x the DLS for arboreals even if it's wasted)
 

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
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Joined
Feb 21, 2024
Messages
26
I mean their size can dictate husbandry requirements. Like if you have 1/2" G rosea versus an adult. Would help tailor the advice you receive.

FWIW everyone in my collection has at least a damp corner, even my adult G rosea and GBBs, I just make sure to let it dry out in between waterings. My Brachypelmas get a damp 1/3, usually as a result of me trying to keep the lower levels damp (so when looking at the side of your enclosure the top level of substrate is always lighter than the lower levels).

I never mist but in addition to a water dish I will dribble a few drops of water near where my T has been loitering, if it's an extended amount of time and I haven't seen a trek or dent in the water dish. I don't trust any of them to drink from it but many do. They can drink from damp substrate, so it's a nice insurance plan provided you have your ventilation dialed in...and don't forget there is a relationship between humidity and temperature in case you find yourself encountering a new weather season soon. :)

Back on the size, the substrate depth will matter too, especially for those that have burrowing tendencies as slings/juvies but less inclined as adults (irminia) but substrate does help hold moisture in the place they seek it, and many use it to construct walls. Be generous even with the adults (I still give 1x the DLS for arboreals even if it's wasted)
All my pics on my phone are too large but I think I have my substrate and other husbandry down. I've done research before I bought my Ts.

My moisture requirements are my current bane. Cause I do worry that I'm not watering enough or I'm watering too much.

I am learning everyday and I use Tom Moran and the T collective alot. I do wander a bit here but tend to stay away as my experiences have been somewhat negative!


But yea I'm super excited.


Hey. It says the King Baboon or the P. Muticus is a dry species but I do want to ask if that's true.

Cause that may be my 20th spider come Friday when I visit my local breeder. Or 22nd depending on if they have the M. Balfour or not. Lol.

As for substrate depth. My 1.5 inch to 2 inch E. Uataman had an enclosure with about 10 inches of substrate. He's happy lol
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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4,666
All my pics on my phone are too large but I think I have my substrate and other husbandry down. I've done research before I bought my Ts.

My moisture requirements are my current bane. Cause I do worry that I'm not watering enough or I'm watering too much.

I am learning everyday and I use Tom Moran and the T collective alot. I do wander a bit here but tend to stay away as my experiences have been somewhat negative!


But yea I'm super excited.


Hey. It says the King Baboon or the P. Muticus is a dry species but I do want to ask if that's true.

Cause that may be my 20th spider come Friday when I visit my local breeder. Or 22nd depending on if they have the M. Balfour or not. Lol.

As for substrate depth. My 1.5 inch to 2 inch E. Uataman had an enclosure with about 10 inches of substrate. He's happy lol
That’s weird only my videos won’t upload, Your phone pictures are too big??
 

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
Active Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2024
Messages
26
That’s weird only my videos won’t upload, Your phone pictures are too big??


Yea tried uploading from phone and said too big. I wanted to show my enclosure!



Goober is currently rearranging its Den again. Lol. I love him 17108164615421757377535993465431.jpg
 

fcat

Arachnobaron
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Jan 1, 2023
Messages
458
Tom Moran is a good resource. I avoid T collect because it's just borrowed material for monetary gain. And forced voices drive me up a wall 🤣 The research you do here is best. Not a fan of YouTube but I am a fan of Dave's little beasties. He tends to give everyone some moisture, even those typically kept dry by others.

Dry is simple and easy to interpret. Damp, moist, wet, swampy, dripping...can be subjective.

Circle back to your substrate. Aside from a water dish this is the moisture we talk about. The substrate. Can you imagine if Ts were labeled with hydration requirements 🤣It's necessary for respiration, which occurs at the book lungs, which are located on the substrate for any species that's not in a vertical position 🤣. When the moisture evaporates, it contributes to the ambient humidity in the enclosure (that's where the non-horizontals are getting their beauty humidity from too).

You can observe your friends for changes. Did they start burrowing out of nowhere? Maybe they are bored, maybe looking for moisture like they'd find in the wild? Are they hovering over their water dish? Usually not a good sign. Are they looking a little on the thin side? They get a lot of hydration from their food, throw them a juicy morsel (hydrated feeder, so treat those guys well too) and if they enter an extended fast/water strike, keep watching the abdomen. If they barricade and you don't see them for weeks, dribble a little water at the burrow. I always make sure they never have to travel too far for water, even if that means multiple dishes, but how do you assess any of these when you may not see your specimen for months?

Appearance of the substrate (moisture gradient, observable difference in color), weight of the enclosure...especially if it appears to have a gradient but you haven't watered in a while.
 

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
Active Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2024
Messages
26
Tom Moran is a good resource. I avoid T collect because it's just borrowed material for monetary gain. And forced voices drive me up a wall 🤣 The research you do here is best. Not a fan of YouTube but I am a fan of Dave's little beasties. He tends to give everyone some moisture, even those typically kept dry by others.

Dry is simple and easy to interpret. Damp, moist, wet, swampy, dripping...can be subjective.

Circle back to your substrate. Aside from a water dish this is the moisture we talk about. The substrate. Can you imagine if Ts were labeled with hydration requirements 🤣It's necessary for respiration, which occurs at the book lungs, which are located on the substrate for any species that's not in a vertical position 🤣. When the moisture evaporates, it contributes to the ambient humidity in the enclosure (that's where the non-horizontals are getting their beauty humidity from too).

You can observe your friends for changes. Did they start burrowing out of nowhere? Maybe they are bored, maybe looking for moisture like they'd find in the wild? Are they hovering over their water dish? Usually not a good sign. Are they looking a little on the thin side? They get a lot of hydration from their food, throw them a juicy morsel (hydrated feeder, so treat those guys well too) and if they enter an extended fast/water strike, keep watching the abdomen. If they barricade and you don't see them for weeks, dribble a little water at the burrow. I always make sure they never have to travel too far for water, even if that means multiple dishes, but how do you assess any of these when you may not see your specimen for months?

Appearance of the substrate (moisture gradient, observable difference in color), weight of the enclosure...especially if it appears to have a gradient but you haven't watered in a while.

Hey there! Well I'm just new to the hobby so I'm learning about the substrate moistness as I go. No T of mine has in the 2 weeks I've had them, hovered and sat at the water bowl. So far so good on this.

My only T I'm concerned about is my LP. She burrowed deep into my critter keeper and only comes out to drink if she does at all. I notice her water cap going down in level so I'm just no catching her. I'm worried a bit cause she's not eating but I'm assumingbits a premolt fast so I'm waiting it out.

Everyone else is doing well as far as I know. Avic is worrisome but it's a petsmart rescue so I'm not expecting a long life.

H.mac won't tske food but did make the funnel webbing so it's most likely premolt. I'm not panicking but I am trying to learn as much as I can to provide happy homes for my new family members.

I'm excited to invite my good sized collection into my home and I'm always cautious and respectful of all my Ts. Old world and new. Everyone is checked on daily if not multiple times a day. They are spoken too like my babies which they are. Each is given love and care.

So far. So good. I'm moving on up.


Speaking of. P. Muticus and H. Gigas.

Is the P. Muticus a dry substrate digger while the H. Gigas is a moist?

And no T of mine gets soggy or muddy substrate. It's moist/damp as best as it can be. I may even get a humidifier if need be if I'm drying out too fast. Either way. I know some basics and not just going completely blind into this.

I appreciate all the help I can get. I know advice on this forum can be... difficult to come by.
 

fcat

Arachnobaron
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458
Be mindful of the substrate wicking the water out of the dish and making it too wet.

Enjoy the burrowing of the LP while you can, I hear they grow out of it in captivity

If you see the feet waiting at the entrance it's usually in hopes a feeder will walk by. If they eat too much they can go into hiding prematurely

I don't have any African species yet unfortunately, sorry. That needs to be remedied lol
 

kingshockey

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Sep 4, 2017
Messages
834
p muticus will dig no matter what dry damp its gonna dig. its my most active t in regards to digging. multiple burrow entrances always with mine and a trashed water dish to clean every morning when it was still a small sling.still a really active digger likes to pile dirt to the lid and poop there here and there
 

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Wolfram1

Arachnoprince
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I my experience the most important thing is understanding ventilation and how it is placed

you described the species in terms of moisture needs, while you could just as well flip it and talk about a consistent soil-moisture and differences in ventilation needs XD

both ways can lead to the same results, and if your ventlation is different, evaporation and in relation how the water vapors behave changes and waterings need to be adjusted, hence Dave, of Dave's Little Beasties sprays his enclosures and has larger surfaces covered by moss (mesh lid) while he now keeps his smaller boxes (very little ventilation in comparison) almost dry even for species with "higher" moisture needs

the Phorid fly infestation of his C. dyscolus 'blue' seems to have been a wakeup call for him to change his approach, adding more ventilation and less water to those boxes

in the end though it comes down to providing a suitable environment despite different setups
 
Last edited:

Stu Macher

Ghostface
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Oct 2, 2023
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109
Hey everyone
I'm new to the hobby with about three weeks roughly of experience! I'm really loving this hobby and I love all my Ts. I have 19 of them and I'm looking at getting one more to male it even cause odd numbers are bad luck. Lol.

Anyways. I've done a bit of research but I'd like to at least get a second opinion on my Ts moisture requirements. I'm okay with my housing otherwise in terms of substrate needed and height and width etc. Just moisture is my concern. So my Ts are.

Aphonopelma hentzi
Pterinochilus murinus
Lasiodora parahybana
Phormictopus sp Dominican Purple
Ephebopus uatuman
Psalmopoeus victori
Grammostola pulchra
Grammostola pulchripes
Acanthoscurria geniculata
Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens
Heteroscodra maculata
Lasiocyano sazimai
Tliltocatl albopilosus
Avicularia Avicularia
Phormictopus auratus
Hysterocrates gigas
Psalmopoeus irminia
Brachypelma boehmei

I'm looking at adding either a P. Muticus((King Baboon)). Or the H. Pulcripes.

Anyways. From my understanding of moisture.

Both Grammas, the Brachy, A. Henzi, and C. Cyan are all dry.

My E. Uataman and my H. Gigas are both heavy moisture requirements. Lots of moisture at the bottom of enclosure.

My P. Irminia, P. Victori, and H. Mac are all semi arboreal that like moisture but not tons of substrate so misting is good for them. Just don't mist the T itself.

Avic avic is Dry dry dry.

The others are all overflow the water dish types.

I'd really like some help in my research or some confirmations that I am doing alright!
I'm not going to preach to you because one of my first few T's was a P Met, but I've always loved Arachnids. I studied books as a kid, got a T for Christmas and really enjoyed learning. I accepted the risk. But, you need to be very conscientious with some of the species you own. I have 3 Poeceletheria and 2 T's I have absolutely no interest in are H Mac's and P Murinus. Those T's will mess you up with little warning, and you won't know your bit until you have to bleeding marks on your hand and theyve teleported to the other side of the room. Watch a ton of rehousing videos (though they make it look way easier than it actually is) Are these all slings or adults?
 

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
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I'm not going to preach to you because one of my first few T's was a P Met, but I've always loved Arachnids. I studied books as a kid, got a T for Christmas and really enjoyed learning. I accepted the risk. But, you need to be very conscientious with some of the species you own. I have 3 Poeceletheria and 2 T's I have absolutely no interest in are H Mac's and P Murinus. Those T's will mess you up with little warning, and you won't know your bit until you have to bleeding marks on your hand and theyve teleported to the other side of the room. Watch a ton of rehousing videos (though they make it look way easier than it actually is) Are these all slings or adults?
Everyone is a sling but my Avic. Yessir!

And yes. I am very aware of my more venomous species. H.mac and my P. Irminia are known for their bitr. Yessir.

I'm very very cautious of my H.MAC.

I heard pokies are nasty tho in terms of their bite. One of the worst.
 

darkness975

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Everyone is a sling but my Avic. Yessir!

And yes. I am very aware of my more venomous species. H.mac and my P. Irminia are known for their bitr. Yessir.

I'm very very cautious of my H.MAC.

I heard pokies are nasty tho in terms of their bite. One of the worst.
For rehousing it's best to do so in the bathtub so if they bolt before you can secure them they have that additional layer of enclosure.
 

Stu Macher

Ghostface
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Messages
109
Everyone is a sling but my Avic. Yessir!

And yes. I am very aware of my more venomous species. H.mac and my P. Irminia are known for their bitr. Yessir.

I'm very very cautious of my H.MAC.

I heard pokies are nasty tho in terms of their bite. One of the worst.
You are correct, very nasty. You don't want to be bitten by any of them. It will ruin your day, potential week, hopefully no complications lasting a month or longer. I work a physically taxiing job, so caution is my best friend.

I will say this. There are OW's who bite 1st and ask questions later. 2 being an H Mac and a P Murinus. Please DO NOT get an S Calceatum. Pokies warn you and tend to be more predictable. However, they will not hesitate to bite if cornered and they've exhausted every other option. I've gotten threat postures from my P Met and P Rufilata, so there's that. However, there are people who have done their proper research and have successfully kept H Mac's and P Murinus without incident. Keyword being *Research.

Getting slings was a very wise choice. I don't know the growth rate for some of your OW's, but it will give you some time to dial in your husbandry. Don't take unnecessary risk during rehouses. There are many great spider gurus out there who have talent. Keep in mind, they have decades of experience and can basically smell their T's pheromones.

This is where you want to be, and a few months down the road youll probably warn others. People here, while snarky at times, will not steer you wrong and know what their talking about.

You paid the price of admission, now you gotta take the ride 😆 I did the same thing, so did many others. I certainly wish I didn't do it prematurely, ill tell ya that. So many great species you can work with that won't put you in the hospital. Oh well, good luck and be safe
 

TalyonUngol

Arachnopeon
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You are correct, very nasty. You don't want to be bitten by any of them. It will ruin your day, potential week, hopefully no complications lasting a month or longer. I work a physically taxiing job, so caution is my best friend.

I will say this. There are OW's who bite 1st and ask questions later. 2 being an H Mac and a P Murinus. Please DO NOT get an S Calceatum. Pokies warn you and tend to be more predictable. However, they will not hesitate to bite if cornered and they've exhausted every other option. I've gotten threat postures from my P Met and P Rufilata, so there's that. However, there are people who have done their proper research and have successfully kept H Mac's and P Murinus without incident. Keyword being *Research.

Getting slings was a very wise choice. I don't know the growth rate for some of your OW's, but it will give you some time to dial in your husbandry. Don't take unnecessary risk during rehouses. There are many great spider gurus out there who have talent. Keep in mind, they have decades of experience and can basically smell their T's pheromones.

This is where you want to be, and a few months down the road youll probably warn others. People here, while snarky at times, will not steer you wrong and know what their talking about.

You paid the price of admission, now you gotta take the ride 😆 I did the same thing, so did many others. I certainly wish I didn't do it prematurely, ill tell ya that. So many great species you can work with that won't put you in the hospital. Oh well, good luck and be safe
Do you mean the P. Murinus as the OBT or the muticus as a King Baboon sir? Cause... I have an OBT who is my booger. 1/2 booger.

S. Calceteum or the Feather leg right? Why would you recommend not getting one? I want to make informed decisions. H.Mac was something that I thought was awesome and I knew it had a bad reputation but I figured with the right cautions that I'll be okay. Obviously still respect it. My plan is with the certain old worlds to wear bite gloves that snake users wear. Just as a precaution.

And I will try to be as snarky back to those who want to be snarky without criticism. What comes around goes around, but people who don't preach to me about being 3 weeks in and getting an H.mac will earn my respect and my ear fast
I know it's.... "dangerous" but it's a beautiful species that I'm confident that I can provide a loving home.

I appreciate people like you who come in and give me advice without an air of superiority.

And perhaps I made a mistake though picking up such Ts early on. I certainly am new... but I'm aware of the dangers and even so. I'm confident in my care and caution.

My only concern is husbandry in terms of soil moisture. Which is why I'll ask.

P. Muticus the King Baboon. What kind of soil husbandry do you guys recommend?

H. Pulcripes?

H. Gigas?

D. Pentalonis?

The pulcripes, muticus, and Pentalonis I think imma pick up on Friday. All slings. I'm interested in seeing my pet holes. Lol.

But I may not do it cause it's less.... displaying. I haven't decided yet. I want it cause it'd a big spider and it had a reputation but at the same time... it's going to be less interesting.


And yes. I paid for my Old worlds already. H. Gigas was a freebie. I'm not going tovsay no to a new T that I don't have. And if I can give it a nice home, then I'll work my best to provide it one.
 
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