Share one unique bit of advice!!!

Bill S

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When transferring tarantulas I sometimes put the KK in a ten gallon aquarium before trying to catch the spider. There's usually not enough room in a KK to maneuver and cup the spider, so they often bail out of the KK before I can catch them. The 10-gallon serves as a safe back-up to keep the spider from sprinting across the room. Once the spider is in the 10-gallon, I remove the KK. This gives me unobstructed room to maneuver, and cupping the spider is easy.

A second trick that works with SOME tarantulas is to place the KK in a large teflon pan before opening it. Some spiders have a very difficult time climbing the teflon sides. (Warning: Note that this works only for SOME of them. A recent event with a Holothele showed that some spiders have no difficulty launching over the sides of a teflon pan.)

My wife uses a pan of water when photographing spiders and scorpions. She puts a rock in the middle of the pan and places the animal on that rock. Sometimes the animal can zip across the water (wolf spiders can) or dive into the water (some scorpions do this), but most of the time the photo subject remains on the rock and can be photographed more easily without fear of escape.
 

x Mr Awesome x

Arachnobaron
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I love this thread. Let's see... If you think you may have been haired, you probably have. My boehmei got me pretty good and I had very itchy hands for a couple of weeks. Take all the precautions after a potential encounter with this. Calamine lotion, duct tape, and do it fast. Seen people with scars on their arms? Yeah...
-ben
 

AllieCat

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Just because you think that your sling (or 3 of your slings) are too big to fit out vent holes..........well.........you might want to think again......:D

It only took the third time for me to finally learn this. If perhaps this thread was posted sooner.........{D
 

jayefbe

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I can't claim authorship of this since I noticed it in other people's photos before doing it myself; however, it has been extremely helpful.

I take a 1 inch hole saw, drill a hole through the top of a container-store cube. Cut the top off of a water bottle, and hot glue it over the hole. Now, I can just unscrew the bottle cap rather than having to pull off the entire top every time. It gives me just enough room to feed, water, and clean (using long tweezers) my incredibly unpredictable OBT sling's enclosure without worrying about it making a mad dash for it. If you have a bunch of terrestrial T's, it's probably not worth it. Those things will just sit one place all day long, but my OBT will make a mad dash if you just look at him funny.
 

Steve Calceatum

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Very good. I took your lead on this one. I got some of that Exo-terra Forest Moss (the stuff that comes in a brick) and I put a nice damp clump of it in the corner of my B. smithi's enclosure. She's been in pre-molt nearly two weeks now.
I've been mixing that Forest Moss in with my coco-fiber to hold in humidity. It works well (very well, actually), but the big thing I've noticed with this mixture is that it seems to have mold-resistant properties. I brought this up in a thread last week, and a couple other people noted this observation as well.

None of my enclosures with this mixture have had a mold-problem. A few days ago, I noticed an old cricket bolus in my Avic avic enclosure that she had hidden away...and probably for some time. Even though the bolus was molded over, none of the surrounding area was effected. I've been pretty OCD about checking in on that enclosure because mold has been a recurring problem for me, and there are no signs of any fungal infestation.

I really hope I've stumbled onto a solution to help combat mold. At the very least, combining your coco-fiber with 25% Forest Moss retains moisture fairly well, and looks better than mixing in vermiculite.
 

Ariel

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does it work with peat moss? for cost reasons I use peatmoss instead of coco fibre, but I do have a reaccuring mold problem in a few enclosures, so I wonder if mixing the forest moss with peat moss will work as well as mixing it with coco fibre.
 

ghordy

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One of the known qualities of peat moss is that it's naturally resistant to mold because of its acidic properties. Might be true of mosses in general.
 

Steve Calceatum

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I think I will try to induce mold into a few small setups (ie: old jars or deli cups) without any inhabitants, and post the results in a couple of months. Kind of like that experement Morgan Spurlock did in the special features of "Supersize Me."
 

Ariel

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I think I will try to induce mold into a few small setups (ie: old jars or deli cups) without any inhabitants, and post the results in a couple of months. Kind of like that experement Morgan Spurlock did in the special features of "Supersize Me."
ooooo that'll be interesting!
 

x Mr Awesome x

Arachnobaron
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Always stay as calm as possible if you're handling your T or if one happens to get out. DON'T FREAK OUT!!! My OBT climbed up on my head the other night. I stayed super calm and there was totally no issue is a result. Just kept my hand by my forehead until he started to move off and then pulled him away from my face. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
 

curiousme

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then why do I keep getting mold? :confused:
Peat moss is not entirely moss, but is instead is a forest floor mixture. That is why you will find twigs and such in it. Read the ingredients on your bag and i bet it is similar to ours.:D
 

BrynWilliams

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I would agree with this entirely, take everything super slow, even if the T isn't being super slow. Reacting badly or panicking just makes everything go crazy.

Always stay as calm as possible if you're handling your T or if one happens to get out. DON'T FREAK OUT!!! My OBT climbed up on my head the other night. I stayed super calm and there was totally no issue is a result. Just kept my hand by my forehead until he started to move off and then pulled him away from my face. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
 

campj

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Instead of fighting to balance humidity and ventilation in the tank, provide plenty ventilation and increase humidity in the room.
 

Ariel

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Peat moss is not entirely moss, but is instead is a forest floor mixture. That is why you will find twigs and such in it. Read the ingredients on your bag and i bet it is similar to ours.:D
well, I know that, I was going based off this:

One of the known qualities of peat moss is that it's naturally resistant to mold because of its acidic properties. Might be true of mosses in general.
I still get mold. So I was wondering if mixing the forest moss in with it might help.
 

Steve Calceatum

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I still get mold. So I was wondering if mixing the forest moss in with it might help.
Wouldn't hurt to try. Moss may be mold-resistant, but not mold-proof. If you took a good-sized clump of damp Forest moss, put it in a plastic grocerey bag & twisted it off (to hold in the humidity), and left it for 2 to 4 months, it would definately develop fungal problems as it was breaking down.

Now, if you took that same clump of Forest Moss, broke it up, mixed it in with your substrate, and placed it in a well-ventilated enclosure, you will have much different results now that the variables are changed.

Check out this article on the growing conditions of mold. Even though it's Wikipedia, it is still good information to know if we are to combat this problem.
 

ghordy

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My understanding is because of its acidity, peat moss is resistant to mold but it doesn't mean you will be mold free if you use it. The determining factors would be moisture content, temp and humidity in order for mold to grow.

I don't believe mixing the Forest Moss product in with the peat moss would necessarily enhance it or kill any existing mold.

I use peat moss exclusively and have yet to experience any mold.

Check the bag to make sure it's 100% Canadian Sphagnum peat moss.
 

scottyk

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I've used a lot of both peat moss, and the coco bricks over the years and noticed zero difference between the two with regards to mold or fungus resistance.

The only remedy is keeping the enclosure clean, keeping out decorations that attract mold, and getting the humidity/ventilation balance under control.

My experience has been that many new keepers needlessly fear giving their enclosures enough ventilation. As long as you stay on schedule with misting slings and keep water dishes topped off, you can give them plenty of air and will almost never see mold.
 

jayefbe

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I agree. I think the biggest problem is probably too little ventilation.
 

Bill S

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Rather than turning this into a discussion of mosses - could we get back on topic? This has been a great thread.
 
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